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Re: Can't get supply and return back on heater
Hayward unions are the hardest in the business to get back on.difficulty varies from htr to htr.Try the two person approach,have one hold line level while other attempts to thread on.no real trick just persistence.
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You need to rent/borrow a fan clutch wrench remover set. They are large skinny wrenches that hold the bolts on the fan so it doesn't spin, while loosening that large nut. Sometimes you can monkey around with strap wrenches and crecent wrenches, but thats no fun. Kragen/Oriely's rents the tool for a $89 deposite. Return when done, and you claim back all your money. Yay! free toolls.
Unless you see a large hex head socket to remove on the top of the water heater, many anode rods are built onto the hot side nipple. They are almost the length of the water heater. Hopefully you have room to remove it if this is the case. If you see a hex nut that is silver gray on top, then shut off cold water to the heater. Release some hot water at a tap to relieve pressure on the tank or drain some out at the bottom which is better. Make sure power is off to unit first or gas is off . Unscrew nut or nipple counterclockwise to remove. Best to remove with a socket wrench or box wrench if it's a nut and a good pipe wrench if it's on the nipple. Several light taps with a hammer if necessary on the handle of the wrench or pipe wrench should help. Hopefully the nipple has a removable flex line if it's located there. (Remember it's on the hot side and should be marked on the top of the heater).
I am assuming this is a large 240 volt water heater and you are asking about the connection at the water heater. First thing is to turn the power to the water heater off at the service panel of disconnect if it has one. You will see three wires that connect to the heater. Normally a white, black, and a ground that is usually green or just a copper wire. On the water heater when you remove the plate on top you will have 2 wires. A red & black or a white & black. You will see a ground screw. Connect the green or copper ground wire to that screw. The 2 wires left you connect either one to either wire. Makes no difference as each wire is carrying 120 volts. When you connect these wires secure them tightly with a wire nut, no wire exposed, and then, with electrical tape, tape them up so as the wire nut cannot come off. Push the wires back into the hole an secure the cover on top.
First of all disconnect the power at breaker panel or there should be a dedicated shut-off switch if this is a newer building. At any rate make sure its disconnected before you drain the water heater if power is on when the element is not safely submirged in water it will melt instantly. You can do this with a circuit tester after removing the access panel for the element. Turn off the water at the valve above your heater or at main and drain down below the eelement. Disconnect the wires attached to the element and remove element. This can be difficult without the right tool. The element just screws into the tank by way of a large thin nut welded around the element. You have to get a wrench or maybe channel locks or preferably a large deep socket on this nut and turn it counter-clockwise if your lucky this will work. But because the nut is so thin and in a tight area you might need to get an "element wrench" at home depot or where ever. There are different sizes measure your element first. Its basically just a deep socket made out of cheap steel with a hex outer shape so you can put it over the element nut and use a wrench or pliers.
Put your new elemeent in re-connect the wires, remember where they were connected when you take the element out.
Fill the water heater turn on power and replace cover.
I would also suggest try to tighten the existing elemnt first. If the leak is at the seal and not the element itself then the seal may be at fault and not the element.
Check your warranty, if this is less than a year old you should have unlimited warranty including labor. But I know that rheem simply does't have warranty contracts in place with repair techs in some areas.
If your warranty is unlimited (includes labor) and efective then hold them to it.
Sounds like the either the ribbon supply or ribbon take-up pressure needs to be adjusted. Supply Spindle: a pair of set screws near the outermost point on the spindle locks the adjustment in place. Loosen the set screws, then move the center pin in or out to change the spindle pressure. Tighten the set screws then test print
Takeup Spindle: a pair of set screws locks the large adjustment nut in place. Loosen the set screws, then tighten or loosen the large nut, tighten the set screws and test print.
SL 70/90 Brew Head Gasket Replacement
Time 1 to 2 hrs
Tools # 2 allen wrench
# 1 Phillips screw driver
# 2 Phillips screw driver
# 13mm wrench
First unplug the machine. Next remove the screw in the top back of the machine. Push the top forward with your fingers. This unlocks the top and it can be placed behind the machine with the wire connected. Next rotate the steam knob counter clockwise till it stops. Inside next to the micro switch there is a brown cam. On the backside of the cam is the #2 allen screw. Loosen this screw and the rotate the steam knob clockwise until it is removed. Now remove the clip on the steam manifold that holds the steam wand. There may be a plastic tie that is securing the clip. Cut it. Pull out the steam wand and let it rest on the bottom cover.
Next remove the 4 large screws that hold the cover plate around the brew head. This will allow the cover plate to drop down and swivel on the steam wand, exposing the nuts that hold the boiler on the bottom metal plate. The nuts that hold the boiler on are # 8. Before you loosen the nuts you need to remove the water inlet nut on the side of the boiler. It is a #13 wrench. Remove the water line. Now remove the nuts that hold the boiler on.