Fuel leaks from around the valve at the 5 gal plastic fuel tank
Can't find anyway to tighten it.Or remove it. How is that accomplished? Not the shut off valve, the valve that connects the fuel tank to the 1/4"hose leading to the shutoff. Valve connects to the bottom of the plastic fuel tank
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First of all, there is a recall for gas tank replacement for your vehicle. The dealer will replace it free. The link will get you to the document in PDF form Redirect Notice
It looks like there is a bracket on one end of the tank hidden by a heat shield
If it is restarting that frequently you have an air leak somewhere. First check the drain valve on the bottom of the tank. If that's closed do the following to find the leak: You should remove the cover on the manifold where the guages are and get a spray bottle with soapy water in it. Let the compressor run until it shuts off then unplug it so it won't keep restarting while your working. Spray the soapy water on things like the copper line from the pump to the tank, the pressure regulator, guages and around the tank drain valve. You are looking for bubbling from an air leak. Make sure it's from a leak and not just boiling the solution off as parts of the compressor will get quite hot while it's filling the tank. Whatever is leaking has to be tightened or replaced.
P0442 - Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Small Leak)
P0455 - Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Gross Leak)
This diagnosis detects leaks in the EVAP purge line using engine intake manifold vacuum. If pressure does not increase, the ECM
will check for leaks in the line between the fuel tank and EVAP
canister purge volume control solenoid valve under the following vacuum
test condition. The vacuum cut valve bypass valve is opened to
clear the line between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister purge volume
control solenoid valve. The EVAP canister vent control valve will then
be closed to shut the EVAP purge line off. The EVAP canister purge
volume control solenoid valve is opened to depressurize the EVAP purge
line using intake manifold vacuum. After this depressurization is
implemented, the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve will
Causes: - Missing Fuel cap - Incorrect fuel filler cap used - Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close - Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap - Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve - Leak is in line between intake manifold
Solutions: - Re-tighten or replace fuel tank filler cap - Replace damaged or leaking EVAP canister - Replace damaged or leaking lines.
You can try to crack it open and get a little piece of crud out of there, I'm sure that is all it is, Just get a tray or something to catch the water, It should stop it, If it gets worse, turn the water off to the heater, then open the valve and hope the bigger piece of crud comes out. It is about all you can do, other than drain the whole thing and take the valve apart and replace the rubber in it. Check it out, Hope this helps.
Hi. Here's the procedure on how to replace the fuel filter.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Slowly loosen the fuel cap to relieve the vapor pressure in the fuel tank. Connect a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure valve while you wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure valve.
Put the gauge's bleed hose into a container for holding the fuel. Bleed the system pressure by opening the gauge valve. There may be fuel that remains in the gauge so drain that into the container as well.
Remove the quick-connect fitting at the inlet end of the filter, and then remove the threaded fitting at the outlet end. Be ready to catch any fuel that may leak out during this process. Take the filter out of the mounting bracket.
Place the fuel filter into the mounting bracket and tighten the bolt to 15 ft-lbs. Connect the quick-connect fitting to the inlet end of the filter, and then connect the threaded fitting to the outlet end of the filter. With a backup wrench, tighten the nut to 22 ft-lbs.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Restore pressure to the fuel system by turning the ignition on for 2 seconds. Then, turn it off for 10 seconds. Turn it on again and check for leaks. Turn it off and do the same.
Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Section 5.
Unfasten the filter retaining screw and remove the filter from the frame rail.
Wrap a shop towel around the hose connections to catch fuel spillage. Loosen the fuel hose clamps and disconnect the hoses from the filter.
Remove the old fuel filter and replace it with a new one.
Connect the fuel hoses and tighten the hose clamps. Position the filter on the frame rail and tighten the retaining screw to 75 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
1994–96 Gasoline Engines — Except 2.5L
The fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted in the fuel tank. This unit is not controlled by the PCM or engine vacuum. It is calibrated to deliver approximately 35–45 psi (241–310 kPa) of fuel pressure to the injectors. If the pressure exceeds the maximum of the specified range, an internal diaphragm closes to route fuel back into the fuel tank. This system eliminates the need for conventional return lines from the engine bay and accounts for the name of the "Returnless'' fuel injection system employed in these vehicles.
NOTE: Fuel tank removal is required for this procedure. Also needed will be external snapring pliers and proper hose clamp pliers, such as No. C-4124 pliers (available through Plymouth/Dodge dealers), or equivalent.
Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Section 5.
Fig. 2: With the fuel tank removed, twist and pull the fuel filter/regulator for removal from the rubber mounting grommet
Drain the fuel tank and remove the tank.
Remove the fuel filter/regulator (which is pressed into a rubber grommet) by twisting and pulling it straight up.
Fig. 3: Use snapring pliers to remove the retainer securing the cover tube to the base of the filter/regulator
Remove the snapring retaining the cover tube, then slide it down to reveal the clear plastic fuel tube and its retaining clamp.
Fig. 4: Cut off the old tube clamp without damaging the plastic fuel tube
Gently cut off the old clamp without damaging the tube, then discard the clamp.
Carefully pull the tube off, then remove the filter/regulator from the fuel pump module.
Install a new clamp over the plastic fuel tube and attach it loosely to the filter/regulator. Rotate the unit in the line until it is pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle.
Tighten the clamp using hose clamp pliers such as No. C-4124 (available through the Plymouth/Dodge dealer).
NOTE: Do not use conventional side cutters to tighten the clamp.
Slide the cover tube up to the bottom of the filter/regulator and install the snapring.
Carefully press the assembly back into the rubber grommet by hand. It should be pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle.
on a dodge neon the fuel pump is in the SIDE of the tank... NOT the top. to remove the pump follow these steps... ******* first unplug battery and remove ******** 1. unbolt passenger side tank strap and lower side of tank. 2. a. if tank is plastic, CAREFULLY unscrew plastic retainer ring but do NOT remove. b. if metal tank, unscrew metal retainer flange but do NOT remove 3. unplug electrical connector and fuel line from pump. move aside. 4. completely remove retainer BE CAREFUL not to disturb pump. 5. have drain pan or wide-shallow bucket available to collect gas. (if tank is full this will need to be able to hold 7-8 gallons) 6. gently twist and pull pump out till gas comes fourth. catch gas in pan/bucket. 7. remove pump when gas stops flowing. 8. install is reverse of removal. 9 BE CAREFUL not to wrinkle gasket or lose gasket into tank when installing or the tank will leak around pump. 10. tighten retainer but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. 11. reconnect plug and fuel lines check for leaks. 12. reattach tank strap and fasten 13. refill tank with clean gas. check for leaks. 14. put battery back in. connect battery, start your neon and check for leaks one last time. 15, have fun. this will take about 4hrs to do by yourself with proper tools.
To gain access to the fuel pump, it is necessary to remove the fuel tank.
Depressurize the fuel system and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.
Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the fuel pump module
attaching flange, to prevent it from entering the tank during service.
Turn the fuel pump module locking ring counterclockwise using a
locking ring removal tool or a brass drift and remove the locking ring.
Remove the fuel pump module.
Remove the seal gasket and discard it.
Put a light coating of grease on a new seal ring to hold it in place during assembly. Install it in fuel tank ring groove.
Insert the fuel pump module into the fuel tank, then secure it in place with the locking ring. Tighten the ring until secure.
Install the tank in the vehicle.
Install a minimum of 10 gallons of fuel and check for leaks.
Install a pressure gauge on the throttle body valve and turn the ignition
for 3 seconds. Turn the key
, then repeat the key cycle five to ten times until the pressure gauge shows at least 30 psi.
If the line leaking is plastic then it's not a brake line it's a fuel line. If the truck runs then it is most likely the return fuel line. If you can't get to it without dropping the tank then that's what you'll have to do, but you shouldn't need to remove it completely.
It is best to siphon out as much gas as possible. Before you removing the bolts take 2 pcs. of smooth fence wire or even 12ga. copper wire and make a cradle to support the tank, cut the wire at least 2 ft. longer than what it will take to go from the frame to the drive-shaft.
At a point about 1/3 in from each end of the tank lupe one end of the wire through holes in the frame and twist it a couple of times, then run it under the tank and around the drive shaft and twisting the ends a couple of turns.
After you get all the bolts out of the tank supports if you don't have room to repair the line you can loosen the wires around the drive-shaft and allow the tank to drop down some[this is why you need the wires 2 ft. longer]
After the repairs which will probably be replacing the rubber fuel hose that attaches the line to the tank,[I'd replace both of them] tighten the wires around the drive-shaft and replace the tank bolts. Remember to get all your bolts started before you tighten any,