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Sounds like the defrost system of your freezer is not working. It could be either the defrost timer, defrost thermostat or the heater has a problem. The defrost timer turns off the compressor periodically to sent power to the defrost heater via the thermostat. The defrost heater then powers up and heats the evaporator coil to melt the accumulated ice buildup on the cold coils. Most likely issues are that the timer motor is not advancing the timer or the heater itself has burned out.
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
prevent recurrence. Behind the upper
freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few
days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille
(full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic
tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the
back). Your problem is too much ice
blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades'
down the back behind the bottom drawer. When you manually
defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost
won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days. I have found that
the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect
the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom
of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with
tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the
door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is
unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off![There is a fan in this area that could start
up without warning] Check how much of
the pipe is blocked by gentle probing
with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This
measurement is important… When the pipe is
clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure
how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block
of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting
more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an
old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the
coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney'
rather than upwards. There's no point steaming
the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when
your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when
you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney'
has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this
right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no
steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the
top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time
to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes. Don't forget to
replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air
from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been
defrosting. Take a lot of
care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid
website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens. Some of these
tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting)
so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back
of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left
of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove
the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer
and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge
from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle
built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with
longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a
larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the
floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath
Sorry I don't have a solution for you, however would like to know if you found out what was wrong. I have an identical problem with my Beko fridge/freezer. It's only 14 months old and the freezer just wont freeze. I've turn it off for 24 hour and let it defrost completely (even had the panel off to make sure there was no ice left). I've turned it back on again and it still wont freeze. Everything seems ok, ie fan blowing, motor running etc. I really am beginning to regret buying Beko. thanks
There is probably an ice build up behind the plastic rear panel. The ice build up gets so thick that eventually, it obstructs the fan and then you get that loud noise as the tips of the fan are chipping away at the ice.
What you need to do is to remove the rear panel and thaw the ice build up. To remove the rear panel is usually only 2 screws at the bottom.....you will find that the panel is difficult to remove due to ice build up behind it, so gentle heat from a hairdryer is a good way to accelerate the thawing process....once the panel is removed, you will see the ice build up......mine was about 2 inches thick!!!
I used the hairdryer to thaw it all out and then once cleared, switched it back on and have never had a problem since.
By the way, my F?F is a Beko CDA563FS......the one with the water dispenser on the front and frost free.
Hope this helps
I'm not familiar with this brand of refrigerator but sounds as if you have a defrost system failure. most refrigs have a defrost timer that you can maually advance into defrost. if you can loate this on the unit then advance into defrost cycle if the heater comes on youll hear a sizzling noise from the ice melting on the heater. this means you have a bad timer. if the heater does not come on then you have a bad heater or defrost termination switch. I tried to find some service info for this mod but was unable to locate anything. good luck peyton
You have a defrost problem. The coils freeze up behind the freezer wall and the air does not flow properly. Replace the heater, defrost timer, and thermostat. get me the model number and i will give you the part numbers so you can order the parts.
I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!