Built in with front panel to match cabinets. Seems to be leaking at the metal corner of the freezer door.
The ice on the bottom of the freezer is blocking a drain hole. When the freezer defrosts automatically, water drains out the bottom into a tray, where it evaporates away and you never see it under most conditions.
The solution is to either defrost the freezer manually and let the ice melt, or pour some hot water into the bottom of the freezer to thaw out the ice and clear the blockage.
If the drain is plugged because of some foreign matter, either method will make a mess, so have some towels at the ready to sop everything up if need be. If it is blocked, a can of Air Duster (like for cleaning electronics) might be able to blow the blockage out, if you seal the nozzle tube up as it is stuck into the drain.
Most likely it is just ice blockage.
You can access the drain tray (where the water goes to evaporate) by removing the grille on the front bottom of the fridge and peeking / poking around. You might want to keep an eye on it as you defrost the freezer or pour hot water in the bottom - it can over-fill quickly.
I had this same problem with my Viking Freezer for a long time. After a few visits from the tech with no progress I decided to go at it myself. What is happening is that the drain keeps freezing. IMO there is a design flaw with the drain. I think that they probably should run the defrost cycle longer or wait longer before they start to cool again. The water freezes up before it has time to run out the bottom of the drain. Once this happens eventually the drain freezes up entirely and won't melt when the defrost cycle happens. The melted water has only one place to go and that is out the front and onto your floor. I took out the rack and drawer. I melted all the ice that was causing the door to not close all the way. I then removed the back panel of the freezer to expose the coil and drain. It took some time but i melted all the ice back there as well including making sure the drain was 100% clear. Once I did that I wrapped 1 copper wire around the heating coil on the front of the heating coil and another around the back of the heating coil. I did this directly over the drain hole. I then twisted the front and back wire together so they would center over the drain hole. I extended the wires down into the drain hole and made sure it was just sticking out the bottom of the drain hole but not touching the drain pan. Now the idea is that when the heating coil heats up it will transfer enough heat down the wires to melt any ice in the drain. So far it has been a month and there is no ice even behind the cover (you can see through the holes in the bottom) and the drain is still clear. little early to claim 100% victory on this but in the past I would already see some ice build up by now. Hope this helps others as this was driving me crazy and the idea of having to replace a very expensive fridge over something so simple was driving me crazy.
Brilliant AND elegant solution! My only concern might be related to the wire against the heater itself: is it the glass tube type heater? A single or double tube unit? My direct concern would be the possibility of the cold wire creating a thermal shock to the glass tube and breaking it. Should that happen, you run a bit of a chance of the coper wire coming in direct contact with the heating element itself. That would not necessarily cause a problem, but if that element were to break - again, likely just through thermal shock - the cold wire touching the hot tungsten heater wire - and then having no place for the juice to go to ground except through your "drain defrost". The results might be quite shocking! A whole lotta things would have to happen for that scenario to play out, but it is not wholey unlikely. My advice would: be if you 'feel' anything, anything at all "funny" when you touch any metal on the fridge, unplug it and check. If your body is not fully grounded, you can sometimes feel something that I can only describe as a "vibration" (60 cycle per second), and not a shock, usually when you barely touch the 'hot' item, or stroke your finger across it. I like your solution to the problem, however. I should rather be electrocuted to death by my fridge, than suffer this slow and agonizing death I am doing now, eating myself into an early grave because I open that danged door 40 times a day, and take something out and put it in my mouth about half the time. Kudos on your "Yankee Ingenuity", audiofn!!!
I think your solution sounds good. I've been having this problem with ice build -up for the last 4-5 years and i've typically just been defrosting the cooling fins in the back and using a turkey baster with straw attached to circulate hot water into the drain to get it to open and work properly. The effects are short lived and a few months later, i had the same problem again. I identified the iced up drain as the problem but didn't know where to get a heat source to keep the drain from freezing. I'll give the copper wire a try if i can find the heater coil you mention. Thanks very much!
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SOURCE: FF200EP Fridge Freezer - water
I had the same problem, the fridge would leak overnight (usually) I found with some more searching the answer..... try it at you own risk!
Here are 2 detailed answers depending on your circumstances/technical ability....Turn off fridge....
1. Defrost fridge...catch all the water
or
2. Work quickly....
Remove drawers, at the back of the fridge there is a panel with 5 phillips screws (note that there are long and short screws). Remove the screws and the panel. (if you chose the second option then this will be "frozen in place" so you will get crunching noise when you peel it away - so be careful when removing it). At the top of the panel is a connector that powers the fan, squeeze the 2 sides in to remove. This will allow the panel/ducting to be removed from the fridge. (If you chose option 2 you will now probably see a large lump of ice over the drain hole).
Remove ice or debris from drain hole, re-asssmble not forgetting to connect the fan again!!!) then repower the fridge following the instructions as you will get the alarms... the fridge cools and the warning lights dissapear.......24 hours on mine is OK!
Mal Function
SOURCE: side by side leaks out front door on freezer side
try checking the tube that water drains out , it could be plugged with crumbs or old partials of food and causing the problem, This has happened with my fridge at one time , affecting the defrost cycle of the freezer and dripping water out of the door, The tube was located under the crisper in the back of the inside of my fridge, Hope this solves your problem
SOURCE: Viking freezer leaking
you have a clogged drain, it is either clogged with ice or some kind of debris, thaw the freezer out and push a length of weed trimmer line down the drain. The drain is accessible by removing the back wall of the inside of the freezer. If there is no clog then the drain may be freezing up, if that is the case, take a piece of 14 gauge romex wire and loop it several times around the heating element at the bottom of the evaporator and push a few inches of it into the drain, this will get hot and transfer heat when it goes into a defrost cycle which is where the water is coming from in the first place
SOURCE: Maytag refrigerator is leaking water
Your freezer has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the unit. Occasionally this drain can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your freezer,due to line freeze over. This can, also, cause a run-off, as stated in your post. In the freezer, standing water will become ice and may result in defrost problems or inadequate coldness.
You will need to Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into the drain line with a basting syringe. If the solution will not flow through, slide a length of ¼ inch flexible tubing into the drain tube to push the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing the clog. This will correct the issue.
The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in the wall behind a drain funnel.
NOTE_It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is level from front to back.
If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or pliers.
If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An ice-maker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then re-tightening the screws.
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