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Anonymous Posted on Jul 19, 2014

I have a Kenmore/whirlpool dryer without heat. I checked the thermal cut of and high limit thermo and they are good. The instructions say to test the thermistor i need to check the resistance on the

11082826101 model numbeer

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Fredrick Howe

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  • Posted on Jul 20, 2014
 Fredrick Howe
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It's always possible that you heating element itself is OPEN? Use an ohmeter and measure for a VERY LOW resistance across the coils after you've unplugged and gotten into it far enough to do that. Be sure and remove the terminals that go TO the heating element so you won't get a false reading. THEN, I'd go to Repairclinic.com and put in your model number and look for this "thermistor" It's probably listed and if you look close enough, it may tell you where it's located. Nice to know a few folks try to repair before tossing.

4 Related Answers

docjohn174

john gagnon

  • 943 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 29, 2008

SOURCE: Whirlpool dryer won't heat

hi. thanks for letting me answer.the only part that was not mentioned. is the timer contacs Y & R . the heat contacts in the heating circuit. thanks

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Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 15, 2011

SOURCE: model 110 73932101 kenmore elite.

there is thermal fuse, Hi limit, and thermistor. the thermistor should have continuity at room temp I don't know what resistence(ohms) it should have. Most units I have seen provide a schematic and trouble shooting guide taped under the control panel for service personal.

Anonymous

  • 1902 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 19, 2011

SOURCE: Whirlpool gas dryer model WGD9200SQ0,

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

The problem is with the door switch or the flame sensor that is bad and needs replacement, you can test both these parts and let me know the result. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Anonymous

  • 2341 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 20, 2011

SOURCE: electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater

in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

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I have a Kenmore/whirlpool dryer without heat. I checked the thermal cut of and high limit thermo and they are good. The instructions say to test the thermistor i need to check the resistance on the...

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in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac
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The first step of the fix has been done by cleaning the lint filter and the vent system.The next step is replacing the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat both located on the blower housing. It is common that the dryer stops heating when the thermal cut-off blows open due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat to cycle off and regulate the heater temperature. The thermal cut-off cuts power to the heating element should the high-limit thermostat fails and the dryer temperature goes extremely high as a safety feature. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.

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The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

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