- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check the aerators on the faucets. i know after i change a hot water tank there is always some crud that comes through the lines and gets stuck in the aerators, they are the part that holds the screens in place on the spouts.
The designs of the Kitchen Sink Faucet mainly exhibit differences in its handles
and spouts. Differently curved spouts and handles diversify the range of
products. Some have long spouts and some are with short ones. The spouting of
water may also give different flow patterns with the external fixtures. The
handles are mainly in single or double.
There is a good chance that if you remove the handle there will be a retainer of some sort. The retainer's job is to keep the stem/cartridge from pushing out due to water pressure. It may be in the form of a nut or a clip. Be careful removing the handle because if the retainer is completely disengaged then the stem/cartridge may shoot up. Turn the hot and cold water off at the valves located under the sink and relieve the pressure by turning the faucet on. If it's a loose nut it will spin freely. Tighten it. If it is a clip you may need to play with the stem/cartridge to align it properly before the clip will move into place..
You'll need to rebuild or replace your hot water control stop--that's the valve on the faucet body. If it's a single handle control, you'll need to replace the control cartridge. If the faucet has two knobs, you'll need to locate whatever stem pieces are needed within the hot valve. Sometimes, on two knob faucets, you can get away with simply replacing the rubber pieces inside the control stem. If that is the case, your local hardware store should have manufacturer-specific rebuilding kits available. Be sure to locate the faucet's model name first! That should be written somewhere on the above-sink portion of the faucet body itself, and you should be able to see it without taking anything apart.
--Hope this helps.
The first solution is of course correct. However I found it almost impossible to remove the spout assembly. It was very stiff and it was difficult to get any leverage to force it off without damaging the finish to the tap as a whole or damaging the sink.
What I found was that if you poured boiling water over the tap/faucet it eased the stiffness and having done this several times - ie about 5 kettle loads of hot water, I managed to remove the spout. It helps if you reconnect the hose directly to the outlet under the sink (ie not via the faucet). THis allows you to run cold water through the tap whilst pourung boiling water over the outside of the tap. The cold water shrinks the copper/brass components whilst the hot water expands the spout assembly. Once off, it is possible to clean the inside of the assembly to remove corrosion or calcium deposits to say nothing of old "O" rings.
I also used a kettle descaler between dousing with boiling water in the hope that some of it would seep down within the assembly.
It took me three attempts to do this. I was almost going to spend UK pounds 430 or US dollars 670 and buy a new unit. So do not give up and I hope this helps. It swings backward and forward now perfectly.
Option 1 ; Cap off the sprayer.
Option 2 ; Relocate the air gap as high as possible under the sink but then you have no drain under it in case it backflows (it is really a vacuum breaker , one way check valve)
Option 3: Take back the faucet and get one of those that the spout is also the sprayer.
All faucets have a hot and cold line input. The single handle units have a mixing valve within the handle. Aside from removing the water lines there is usually some type of connecting bolts for the base plate as well that will need to be removed prior to removing the faucet. Do not forget to turn the shut off valves off at the wall before you remove the water lines.
I would check the strainers on the intake and the faucet spout. It is possible that sediment has built up and now is impacting thermostatic flow from the faucet... if one side is clogged its hard for the faucet to balance... try the stainer on the spout and any other strainers that may be on the supply hoses, valves, intake, etc...