Question about Troy Bilt Tb425cs 26cc 4 - Cycle Curved - Shaft Gas Trimmer with Ez - Start and Speed Spool

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The clutch is not engaging

This problem is at the cone

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I threw it away, now I am looking for another one.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Ryobi trimmer Rlt30CES head slow down under revs


Sounds like a drive shaft/clutch type problem, I do not know the machine but suspect it uses a flexible shaft to the head has this union worn out or at the motor end there would be some kind of clutch which would leave the motor spinning on tick over (not the head) then engage on rev up. Perhaps this is faulty or has oil on it, could be its flexible shaft has got a worn end.

On my old B&D it throws a sprung disc out under centrifugal force to engage with its drive shaft coupler which at low revs the springs "win" to disengage it.

Its head end is easier first to check by removal of its line holder after that things are more complex with mine four screws remove what I call its nose cone to get into the clutch area.

If there is a wear issue run it at a gentle speed dabbing its head into some grass you may find the motor spins on but its head stops which will confirm the above.

Hope this helps..........

Apr 28, 2017 | Ryobi Garden

1 Answer

Clutch stays open. Works for awhile after a complete breakdown but then sticks. is clutch spring in wrong way cone out or cone in?


Hi, Joey I would love to help you but the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and my mental telepathy headset is broken so sorry, I need the year, make, and model of your motorcycle please ask your question again and provide this information in the details box or comment section or edit your original question. Good luck and have a nice day.

May 27, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Removing clutch cone from cox stockman ride on mower


Old question, but maybe this will help others:
Here is the answer for all Cox Stockman machines fitted with a single large bolt through clutch cone. Below it you'll find a VERY GOOD REASON WHY YOU SHOULD NOT DO IT!!!

1. Disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery.
2. Loosen the four bolts that secure the engine and slide engine backwards.
3. Remove the 'R Clip' on the link rod at the front of the clutch carrier, then disconnect the link rod.
4. Loosen all four grub screws on the drive plates and slide them as far out as you can.
5. Raise the rear of the machine and secure with axle stands or some other method that will leave you with a SAFE WORKPLACE!
6. Remove the 9/16" locknut on the clutch pivot bolt (under the rear of the machine), then unscrew the pivot bolt. Do not try to drive it out with a punch, as it is screwed into the adjusting plate.
7. When bolt is removed, slide the rear of the carrier across to one side and the front of the carrier to the other side ( to clear the bracket at the front of the carrier) and work the whole assembly forward enough to clear the rear chassis rail. Then drop it down and remove the assembly from the machine.

To replace the cone, lock the large bolt head into a vice, then use a 2 or three pronged lock bar to unscrew the pulley from the bottom of the bolt. Then, fit a new cone onto the bolt and reverse teh entire process.

Now, here's why you should NOT DO THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you don't read this part, I absolutely guarantee that it will end up costing you far more money than if you'd sent the machine to a Cox Service agent ( I am one).

About the only thing on any Cox machine that requires specialist knowledge and tooling to correctly repair, is the drive cone clutch system. Removing and replacing the drive cone itself is the easiest part of the process and I have seen it done by plenty of people. I've also spent plenty of time then fitting another new cone to their machine, because the one they put on is now stuffed. The drive cone is just one part of an assembly and if the entire job is not done correctly the FIRST TIME, the new cone can be destroyed in a very short time. And the only way to do the entire job correctly is to have the special tools and knowledge. No if's, no but's and no maybe's!

Oct 21, 2014 | Garden

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How to remove clutch cone from Cox mower


Go to you tube on line add how to remove clutch cone cox mower. Watch a video

Oct 21, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

Will not go into first gear when going down the gears


I will answer this as if it is a manual gear box as the solution will be different for an automatic.
First gear has a syncro ring energise spring that when pushed against the syncro cone in the gear spins the gear to the relevant shaft speed so that engagement is smooth. Because of the vast difference of the shaft speeds when engaging 1st gear the energising doesn't get a chance to work and so the gears refuse to mesh. To possible ways to get around this is to keep the road speed low say around 10mph or less or increase the engine rpm up to around 3500-4000rpm before trying to engage 1st gear. Basically the syncro is for engaging the gear as you are coming to a stop or going very slow . Check the drain plug magnet for metal as the clutch shaft bearing may be moving forward and preventing the engagement properly.

Apr 15, 2014 | 2005 Hyundai Tucson

1 Answer

Noise when shifting gears


transmission synchronizers most common cause of transmisson noise in certain gears, and not others, might want to check the gear oil level. Transmission rebuild required. To read about them and what they actually do, then here is a good read:
When you shift gears in your standard shift car, you move a rod that moves a fork that engages the gear. Depending which gear you're shifting to, a different fork does the job. The fork moves the collar to the desired gear, and dog teeth on the collar mesh up with holes on the gear in order to engage it. You engage reverse gear through a separate, small idler gear. The reverse gear always turns in the opposite direction of the other (forward) gears.
In years past, double-clutching was common in order to disengage a gear, allow the collar and next gear to reach the same speed, and then to engage the new gear. To double-clutch shift, you pushed the clutch pedal to free the engine from the transmission. Then the collar moved into neutral. You released the clutch and revved the engine to get it to the right rpm value for the next gear so the collar and the next gear spun at the same rate to allow the dog teeth to engage the gear. When the engine hit the right speed, you depressed the clutch again in order to lock the collar into place on the next gear.
Modern cars use synchronizers in order to avoid the need for double-clutching. A synchronizer, or "synchro," lets the collar and gear synchronize their speeds while they're already in contact but before the dog teeth engage. Each manufacturer's synchro is slightly different than the others, but the basic idea is the same. For instance, a cone on one gear will fit into a cone-shaped depression on the collar. The gear and collar synchronize their speeds thanks to the friction between the cone and collar. Then the outer part of the collar moves out of the way so that the gear can be engaged by the dog teeth.

Dec 16, 2013 | Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cant get 2nd and 4th gear on my citroen relay 57 plate


Hi Colin, What happened to your Lotus? The problem with your vehicle could be broken or damaged engine mountings or adjustments of the linkages if the problem is failure to engage, but if you are engaging the gears and then the gears pop out, the problem is inside the gearbox with the syncromesh cones and clutches. Lotus is better than Citroen anyway! Regards John

Jul 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pull cord engaging


recoil clutch fingers are broken or stuck. Take the recoil cover off and look at it while pulling the cord to see if the fingers arent coming out. If the fingers are still coming out then you have worn out grooves on starter cone where fingers engage to turn the motor. If the recoil is damaged a new one can be purchased as a unit from Troy Bilt online for a reasonable price.

Jan 25, 2013 | Troy Bilt 5.5hp Self Propelled Mower

1 Answer

Problems selecting gears on a hyundia coupe. it seems more difficult when car is cold


I assume you're referring to a standard transmission (clutch pedal w/manual shifter)? Some of the most common problems w/this powertrain component are
1. low fluid level in the clutch master cylinder
2. Worn clutch disk and or dual mass flywheel.
3. leaky/worn clutch slave cylinder.

Least common

1. worn sychronizers inside the trans
2. worn/beveled cones-to-primary (or) primary synchronizer cone to secondary synchronizers. Some transmissions were designed with dual synchronizers.

Best advice is to have a qualified/certified Hyundai Service Technician properly diagnose the drivability issue you're having.

Aug 27, 2011 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

1 Answer

I have a 1983 honda magna v45. I got the bike from someone that hasn't messed with it in about 6 years. After about the last 2 months of cleaning the carbs i got it running. Now when i put it in gear its...


Hello,

Have you checked to see if the clutch lever is working properly? If the clutch stays engaged, the bike won't move. You can lubricate the clutch cable by removing it and taping a cardboard cone to the housing and pour a lightweight (30w) motor oil into the cone. Next, move the cable back and forth for a minute or so so that the oil will flow down inside the cable.

If the clutch cable is working correctly then then clutch plates are not disengaging when put into gear. Try different gears to see if it does the same thing. Also, have you changed the oil in the bike? Your bike uses a wet clutch system which means that the oil you put in the crankcase is also used for your clutch plates. Using a synthetic oil will cause problems with your bike (according to Honda).

Hopefully this will give you a few more ideas to try. If you need more information, please post a reply/comment and I will get back with you.

If you find this information helpful, please vote on this post. Thank you.

Regards,

Oz

Jan 15, 2011 | Honda VF 750 C Magna Motorcycles

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