Question about Creda W120VW Front Load Washer
My 4 yr Creda Excel 1200 washing Machine cannot do a full cycle on a fast spin wash programme. Creda W220VM during the spin cycle makes a loud banging sound and starts producing a smell like a burned rubber. I had to stop the cycle as I am worried that it might explode. I am now using a slow spin wash programme to wask my clothes but my clothes ends up slightly wet. Can this be repair or it is better to buy a new one?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This will either be a blocked pressure vessel, or the brushes on the Motor. I am not sure where the pressure vessl is on this model But you will find it buy taking the top of and finding a round or oval shaped component with a plastic tube running from it. carefully pull this tube of and blow down it. it should be clear. unplug machine first.
Posted on Nov 19, 2007
SOURCE: Creda excel 1200
Yes on these three wires you will see if you look carefully that they have written on them neutral ,, one ,,, two,,
these wires connect to the buttons on the front panel,, So if you find the one that says neutral on it... that one connects to the switch on the left hand side of the switch,, its the side that has a connection to the other switch by a small metal strip usually (but some times a wire connection is used ) the other wires connect to the other side of the switches number one connecte to the top switch and number 2connects to the buttom switch i hope this helps....
any probs let me know...
Posted on Jan 17, 2008
In your browser bar type in:
HOTPOINT USER MANUAL and follow the links.
You will find what you are looking for.Although it says Hotpoint, just type your model in the box, and it will come on screen, then you can save it, or download it to your printer
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Posted on Dec 16, 2008
I have changed the drum bearings on our Creda Excel 1200 V120VW. Not a simple job by any means.
The machine had to be just about totally stripped to get at the drum.
Before starting beware of sharp edges on just about any part of the machine
Remove all panels, top, rear, front facia, front panel including door, motor, powder draw
The secret is to remember to take photos or make drawings of the position of all the electrical wiring, hoses, covers and any other components you may be removing for access. Keep all you components together, it saves hunting for them later or worse still not refitting them.
Once the drum is out of the washer the drive pulley has to be removed. It is secured by means of a 30mm af nut which has also been fastened with thread locking fluid. Fortunately I have an electric ratchet gun, otherwise it would have required heat on the nut to defeat the locking fluid. The pulley is also threaded and was unscrewed with the aid of an application of WD40.
The front of the outer drum is unclipped and removed, the inner drum can then be removed by replacing the nut flush with the end of the thread, to prevent damage, and tappinng the drum out with a soft faced mallet.
This done you then have to remove the old bearings and seal. This is done be means of a drift and hammer, taking care not to bruise the area where the new bearings will be fitted.
The old seal may have to be destroyed by a sharp screwdiver or a proper seal removal tool.
When the bearings are out clean all areas with fine emery, lightly grease the bearing recesses and fit the new bearings and seal. Take care when refitting the stainless drum back into the outer drum not to turn the lip on the seal.
Now it's just a simple matter of re-assembly, make sure all parts remove are re-fitted in the correct sequence.
Another tip is not to put machine and all panels, ie; top cover and rear panels, back in place until the washer has been run and tested and inspected, to make sure there are no leaks and the machine goes through the cycles as it should.
Finally good luck!!!!
Posted on May 29, 2009
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