Question about Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
I have a Kenmore 596-76593600 refrigerator that I purchased 3 years ago. It is stainless steal, has french doors and a bottom freezer. It is making a VERY LOUD noise - appears to be coming from underneath - maybe the compressor? When I am upstairs, I can hear it! It is scaring me! I have cleaned the coils with a vacumm tool, so I feel certain that is not it. Sometimes the noise is only for a few minutes. Once the noise went on for about 4 hours. The temperature is staying constant (in both the freezer and refrig. Zero and 40 deg) according to the digital numbers in the refrig.
For the moment, I also believe the lines are frozen in the icemaker because the filters were changed in the reverse osmosis unit in our house. I was told I could try using a hair dryer, but the lines would be hard to get to...
Also, I had a tech come out a year ago because the refrig and freezer was not cooling. I spent $250 to add a 1 year warranty through Sears at the time. The tech vacummed under my refrig and that is all he did. That cost me $250. Then I found out how sensitive the coils on the compressor are, so I kept it clean going forward. I spent another $159 to add another year. I have a tech coming out to look at it this week. I just hope he knows what he is doing. So, in summary, I will have had a tech out TWO times in THREE years for a refrigerator and spent an extra $409. I spent about $2,000 on it new on I think! Interesting, I have a refrigerator in my garage that I have had for 10 years, paid about $500 for and have NEVER had a tech out for it - it's a Whirlpool. Didn't the two companies merge? If so, what year? Maybe older refrigerators are the way to go - not new ones!
HOW LONG SHOULD A COMPRESSOR LAST ON A NORMAL REFRIGERATOR? What types of compressors are the best (for future reference)? Please reply.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I turned off the refrigerator and left the freezer door open so the coils and the vents could thaw out. The cold air was not getting to the refrigerator section because of ice blocking the vents.
Posted on May 06, 2008
easy fix my man. couple of possibilities: 1) the fresh food gets cold air from the freezer via the vents where the water has been coming out. the water has frozen up in the vents and is blocking the airflow. the reason the water was coming out in the first place is a slow drain. open up the evaporator cover inside the freezer. get all the ice out of there and clear the drain. a little bleach will kill the gunk that made the drain flow slowly.
2) you have a defrost issue and the coil is loaded up with frost causing no airflow to the fresh food section. check the defrost heater limit and timer. none of these repairs should be over 150. but thats in lawton ok. if you live in L.A. or NYC get the wty.
Posted on May 07, 2008
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
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