Question about Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Kenmore 596-76593600 making LOUD noise intermittently

I have a Kenmore 596-76593600 refrigerator that I purchased 3 years ago. It is stainless steal, has french doors and a bottom freezer. It is making a VERY LOUD noise - appears to be coming from underneath - maybe the compressor? When I am upstairs, I can hear it! It is scaring me! I have cleaned the coils with a vacumm tool, so I feel certain that is not it. Sometimes the noise is only for a few minutes. Once the noise went on for about 4 hours. The temperature is staying constant (in both the freezer and refrig. Zero and 40 deg) according to the digital numbers in the refrig.

For the moment, I also believe the lines are frozen in the icemaker because the filters were changed in the reverse osmosis unit in our house. I was told I could try using a hair dryer, but the lines would be hard to get to...

Also, I had a tech come out a year ago because the refrig and freezer was not cooling. I spent $250 to add a 1 year warranty through Sears at the time. The tech vacummed under my refrig and that is all he did. That cost me $250. Then I found out how sensitive the coils on the compressor are, so I kept it clean going forward. I spent another $159 to add another year. I have a tech coming out to look at it this week. I just hope he knows what he is doing. So, in summary, I will have had a tech out TWO times in THREE years for a refrigerator and spent an extra $409. I spent about $2,000 on it new on I think! Interesting, I have a refrigerator in my garage that I have had for 10 years, paid about $500 for and have NEVER had a tech out for it - it's a Whirlpool. Didn't the two companies merge? If so, what year? Maybe older refrigerators are the way to go - not new ones!

HOW LONG SHOULD A COMPRESSOR LAST ON A NORMAL REFRIGERATOR? What types of compressors are the best (for future reference)? Please reply.

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  • reevessa Sep 18, 2009

    Well, I have since had the problem fixed - so it seems. That was a few months ago I think. It was quite a long time ago when I posted this question. I was looking for my paperwork, but could not locate it. The repair guy squirted hot water into my ice maker to melt the frozen line. Then my ice maker worked fine. There was a line ( I seem to recall it looking copper) near the pan on the bottom of the refrigerator. He said it was making the noise. He put some glue or something on it to quiet it down. he said it was vibrating. I couldn't believe it was that that was making such a huge racket! According to him, that is what was causing the noise. It hasn't made the awful loud noise since. Interesting though that it all started when I changed the filters on the reverse osmosis unit - which then caused the line to freeze. Prior to that, I had a different guy come to look at the reverse osmosis unit. It turned out that there was too much air pressure in the tank of the reverse osmosis unit which would not let the water flow. The guy said it should only have about 10 lbs of pressure. Once that was fixed, and the line to the icemaker was unfrozen, that is when my ice maker started working again. Back to the Sears repair guy. Once he unfroze the line, the refrigerator started making that noise and that is when he said it was that other thing (maybe it was a condensor line or something - I don't remember). I really don't know anything about the components - or what they really do for that matter. It was at the bottom of the refrigerator. Anyway, I am quite aggrovated at all the money I have put out just to keep my food cold!

  • Victor Kernes
    Victor Kernes May 11, 2010

    Hi again Steph, we are new to FixYa and we are still trying to figure out exactly how the web site functions. With that said, glad to see you have some of your problems solved. Keep us in mind for any advice for Reverse Osmosis Systems, Water Softeners, or Well Water filtration which is our field of expertise. You can also visit us on the web at Victor

  • Victor Kernes
    Victor Kernes May 11, 2010

    H Steph, are you sure the noise is coming from the Compressor and not the Inlet Solenoid Valve to the Ice Maker, or the Ice Maker itself? Also, with the Appliance Manufacturing Philosophy of our era, and the shrewd competition from China, ALL Appliance companies including Maytag have forgone Quality for Profit. In other words, they can no longer survive on building a quality piece of equipment that will last 10-15 years without needing repairs or selling you anew one, so they build in obsolescence to either sell you a new machine every 2-4 years, or ding you to death with constant parts replacement and repair labor costs. This is our reward for letting the Chinese Steal our Ideas, take our manufacturing, and buy our Real Estate. Hope this helps. Vic



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SOURCE: refrigerator stopped working, freezer works fine

I turned off the refrigerator and left the freezer door open so the coils and the vents could thaw out. The cold air was not getting to the refrigerator section because of ice blocking the vents.

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SOURCE: Refrigerator Water Leak from opening under Freezer

easy fix my man. couple of possibilities: 1) the fresh food gets cold air from the freezer via the vents where the water has been coming out. the water has frozen up in the vents and is blocking the airflow. the reason the water was coming out in the first place is a slow drain. open up the evaporator cover inside the freezer. get all the ice out of there and clear the drain. a little bleach will kill the gunk that made the drain flow slowly.
2) you have a defrost issue and the coil is loaded up with frost causing no airflow to the fresh food section. check the defrost heater limit and timer. none of these repairs should be over 150. but thats in lawton ok. if you live in L.A. or NYC get the wty.

Posted on May 07, 2008

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SOURCE: Kenmore Elite bottom freezer refridgerator

I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........

In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.

Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.

Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)

Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Kenmore 596.73502201 Not cooling. Compressor , fan, seal ok

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”

  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor

  • The Thermostat

  • The overload, relay, or capacitor

  • The defrost timer

  • The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite refrigerator keeps freezing the food!

Replace your thermostat and will work like new again

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

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