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I'm guessing this is a table top machine. If so then I take your meaning of "Blowing Off" as in turning off or running out of steam. The table top steamers usually found on home units do not have the capacity to froth large mugs like a "Venti" 20 oz cups. You will have to wait for the boiler to re-heat. It's best to heat a smaller cup of cold milk, pour the milk into the venti and make a 2nd batch again with cold milk. (It's hard to re-froth hot milk).
* check your steam wand tip if it's plugged with old milk. Soaking the wand in warm water overnite will help soften the milk which can be blow out when you make steam again. If you make a lot of milk drinks, it's a good idea to give the wand a blast of steam, then a good wipe with a damp cloth to keep milk residue off the wand.
* It's also possible your steam heater is starting to clog up. If you find that it gets slower and less steam with time then the steamer will need to be replaced. Check your warranty and call for service.
* Please update question with brand and model if you want more help.
Aloha, ukeboy57
Hey there! It sounds like your vacuum may be clogged causing it to redirect the air flow which may be causing the cover to blow off. To check the vacuum for clogs disconnect the hose from the cleaner and the wand, use a broom stick to gently loosen and remove any clogs from hose. Also check the wand and the nozzle for blockages. If it is the filter cover that is coming off and there are no clogs, the tabs on the filter cover may be broken. Contact a local service center for information on replacing the filter cover. Reference part 59135033. Or you may contact Hoover Customer Service at 1-800-944-9200. Hope this helps!
My XP5240 also started blowing the steamer wand off after about 3 months of use, despite fiollowing the Krups cleaning instructions. Here's what I did to fix it.
A: The Problems. The wand has three holes in the coffee end (center, and on each side). The center hole gets blocked with milk residue. This causes a pressure build up in the wand assembly, and eventually this is enough pressure to overcome the three gripping clips that hold the wand to the nozzle tube. I suspect this was an intentional design for safety. It's unfortunate that it also sprays the user with milk when it lets go.
The second problem is that removing the wand requires that the outer clip retainer ring to be slid down to release the clips. Many users don't realize this and try to pry or twist the wand off. This breaks the clips.
B: The Solution The wand has to be regularly and throughly cleaned. Just soaking it is not enough. Do it this way:
1. Slide the clip retainer ring down, and then hold the steam tube and gently move the wand straight down. DO NOT try to twist the wand to one side, or you WILL break the clips.
2. Holding the ring, unscrew the coffee nozzle end. The wand separates into three parts: Outer tube, inner steam tube and decorative cylinder.
3. Use a needle or very fine wire (approx 0.4mm) to clear the three holes in the coffee end nozzle.
4. You now need to clear the metal wand tube of milk residue. I found that a 7/64" drill bit was perfect to do this, as it fits snugly in the tube. The amount of gunk removed was surprising.
5. Blow the tube clear from both ends. If it's clean, you will be able to see light through all three holes. If not, go back to step #3.
6. Make sure that there is no milk residue on the steamer tube nozzle where the wand clips on. Milk contains fat, and this is an unwanted lubricant.
After cleaning, my steamer works properly for several days. I also located a 21mm ID O-ring at the local hardware store to hook over the clips. This provides a bit more clip gripping pressure, but will still allow the wand to come off should steam pressure gets excessive.
The fuse that keeps blowing is related to your ignition. Get the faults read at a shop and find what is triggering fault and that will lead you to your problem. It's a whole lot easier than throwing parts at it, and cheaper.
If the trigger still works to fire the single shot, then the o-ring kit should be sufficient. If the trigger area continues to leak air, then the trigger should be replaced as well. Keep the gun well lubricated as well.
try some sticky back foam to seal the gap up,,the type you stick around doors and windows to stop the cold draft blowing through gaps,,,,,
well if it works on doors it should work the other way around?
hi you have got a fault with the unloader it's not unloading so its going a bove the 13amps and knocking the thermol overload out or blowing a fuse you could cable tie the trigger open or get a new unloader kit costing about £70.00 regards
hi, there is a small ball bearing inside the nozzle on the end of the lance , this can get jammed or missaligned and the nozzle orifice can get blocked , clean this or replace the whole lance with another 200 Bar lance .
Does it blow when the trigger is pressed or as soon as the mains power is applied??? If it blows when first turned on it could be the cooling fan or the main transformer or auxillary transformer if it has one. If it blows when triggered it could be the pcb or the wire feed motor ,diode bank or main transformer .
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