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Re: Air conditioner not cooling
This is a tell tale sign that your condenser coil on the rear of your upper unit is dirty. You need to get up on the roof and remove the shroud from the unit. Gently spray into the condenser with a water hose until the water that is coming out is clean. This is a good procedure to do once or twice a year to help the efficiency of your unit.
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Try setting your thermostat between 72°F and 78°F. Each degree setting below 78°F will increase your energy consumption by approximately 8%. As you can see, that can add up to a lot of money over a year.
Inspect and clean both the indoor and outdoor AC/Heating coils. The indoor coil in your air conditioner acts as a magnet for dust because it is constantly wetted during the cooling season. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency. The outdoor coil must also be checked periodically for dirt build-up and cleaned if necessary.
Check the refrigerant charge. The circulating fluid in your air conditioner is a special refrigerant gas that is put in when the system is installed. If the system is overcharged or undercharged with refrigerant, it will not work properly. You may need a service contractorto check the fluid and adjust it appropriately.
Use bath and kitchen fans sparsely when you are running the air conditioning system.
Reduce the cooling load by using cost-effective conservation measures. For example, effectively shade east and west windows. When possible, delay heat-generating activities, such as dishwashing or baking, until the evening on hot days.
Try to not use a dehumidifier at the same time your air conditioner is operating. The dehumidifier will increase the cooling load and force the air conditioner to work harder, which in turn increases your utility bill.
Over most of the cooling season, keep the house closed tight during the day. Don’t let in unwanted heat and humidity. If practical, ventilate at night either naturally or with fans.
Room Air Conditioning Units
The unit should be level when installed, so that the inside drainage system and other mechanisms operate efficiently. If possible, install the unit in a shaded spot on your home’s north or east side. Direct sunshine on the unit’s outdoor heat exchanger decreases efficiency by as much as 10%. You can plant trees and shrubs to shade the air conditioner, but do not block the airflow.
Set the fan speed on high, except on very humid days. When humidity is high, set the fan speed on low for more comfort. The low speed on humid days will cool your home better and will remove more moisture from the air because of slower air movement through the cooling equipment. Consider using an interior fan in conjunction with your window air conditioner to spread the cooled air more effectively through your home without greatly increasing electricity use.
Set your air conditioner’s thermostat as high as comfortably possible in the summer. The less difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be. And don’t set your thermostat at a slighter setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, unnecessary expense.
Don’t place lamps or televisions near your air-conditioner’s thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, which can cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.
Proper maintenance of your air conditioner will also save energy. Be sure to do the following:
At the start of each cooling season, inspect the seal between the air conditioner and the window frame to ensure it makes contact with the unit’s metal case. Moisture can damage this seal, allowing cool air to escape from your house.
Check your unit’s air filter once a month and clean or replace filters as necessary. Keeping the filter clean can lower your air conditioner’s energy consumption by 5% to 15%.
Occasionally pass a stiff wire through the unit’s drain channels. Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity, and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls or carpet.
*In the winter, either cover your room air conditioner or remove and store it.
I lost you at my the end but the 2 ton unit should be able to cool 960 sqft. Sounds like a refrigerant problem. Air conditioners should cool the air 15 to 20 degrees. This means 80 degrees going into the machine in the return should be 60 to 65 degrees coming out in the supply. If you are in that range than it's likely never going to cool the space.
Unfortunately, 7000 Btu's will not cool 1180 sq ft. At best, it's rated for 400 sq ft, as it's only rated as a "Room Air Conditioner". To cool 1180 square feet, you'll need at least 30,000 Btu's (like in Central Air Conditioning) or 4 more window units spread out throughout the condo. It takes more Btu's to cool, than it does to heat.
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This may sound dumb but ( 1) Do you have the warm air from the unit to the exterior of the space? If the condenser is in the space your putting the heat your trying to remove right back into the space. ( 2 ) There should be an air supply and an air return in the space only. With that there should be a temperaturedifference of 16 to 20 degrees between the supply and return. ( 3 )A 1 ton unit usually will cool approximately 400 square feet. ( 4 ) It may take a while to pull the space temp down due to pulling the heat and moisture from the ceiling, walls, and floor. This could take 6 hours or more the first time you use the system in a space.