Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Drier has stoppd heating. Exposed heating element. Coils not glowing. notice that coil is for 240 v and we are in the USA, on 120 v system. Continuity test of coil causes light to only flicker.

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You need the dryer supply voltage to be 240VAC for the heater. Everything else runs off one leg of that or 120VAC L1 (Black)-Neutral(White)-L2 (Red)
L1 to L2 = 240vac
L1 to Neutral=120vac
L2 to neutral = 120vac
Eric

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

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I a have a kenmore 417 dryer that is not heating I followed the steps


Check to see if the electrical coils are glowing or not...... they are located right behind the cloths drum. (sounds as though they are NOT heating up) In order to see these coils...... first, remove all the cloths from the drum. second, while the dryers door is open 7 the drum is empty look all the way to the rear or the metal drum, it has a flat back in which you will notice there are quite a few holes. During the next step you will want to watch these holes as we check to see if the heating coils are lighting up (they will glow like the heating element in your oven... or burners on your stove top as they get hot.... ORANGE IN COLOR IS WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE) Now.... with the dryer drum empty & the door OPEN..... you will find a small pushbutton located somewhere around the outide of the drum opening thats activated (pushed in when you cose the door), depress this little button and hold it IN (this is tricking the dryer into thinking the door is closed... but its not, your holding the button NOT the door.... luckly the dryer isn't smart enough to know this) You must continue to hold the button in till the test is over.... if you let go it will IMMEDIATELLY STOP the dryer! Now, push the start button located on the console like you normally would do so during normal operation (it is recommended that the temperature be set to the HIGHEST SETTING during this test). As the dryer starts and the drum turns.... watch those holes located in the back of the drum! It takes a minute for the coils to get hot enough to glow so give it a few minutes before giving up..... after 3 minutes an ORANGE GLOW should appear through those little holes. The glow you see is the coils getting hot like the element in your oven. If after 3 minutes..... NO ORANGE GLOW can be seen through any of these holes..... the heating element needs to be replaced (this is a common problem & is usually inexpensive to replace..... $15 - $20) Replacement heating elements are available at most appliance stores..... remember to write down the manufacturers name, the dryers model number, and serial # prior to going to the store for a replacement. You MUST provide this information to the dealer for proper replacement parts! Once you've got the new heating element (it will look similar to a really long spring) you'll be Up & Running in No time!!!!) Just follow the instructions which are usually provided by the manfacturer to properly replace the broken element! Hope this helps...... GOOD LUCK!!!!!

May 15, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

Tip

Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer Does Not Heat


Electric

First , check the circuit breaker to make sure they are on . Be sure to UNPLUG the dryer , while checking with an ohm meter . When checking WITH power , BEST to have another person available in case of emergency . I do know of 1 person killed while working on his dryer .
A dryer operating on 240 volts , sends 120 volts to the timer and 120 volts to the motor . In between these two , are the thermal cut-off , and the element ( this is the basic operation parts ) . The 120 volts from the motor , goes directly to the element if selected for heat . The timer circuit , sends the other 120 volts , thru the operating thermostats , then thermal fuse , then thermal cut-off , then high-limit thermostat , then to the element . Usually , not ALL the time , the thermal fuse ( number 1 ) is the problem . The heating element ( number 2 ) is usually the problem , if the thermal fuse is good .
If the thermostats , element , and thermal fuse check good with an ohm meter , remove 1 wire from the element and check with a meter , which side is NOT getting 120 volts . Trace the wire which will either go to the timer ( occasionally ) or to the motor ( extremely rare ) .

Gas

On a gas dryer , for no heat , or , heats for a short time then runs but no heat afterwords until cooled down , first check that the electronic igniter , glows red . If it does NOT glow red , then check power to the burner ( 2 wires ) . If no power , then the thermal fuse is bad . (On electric dryers , the thermal fuse keeps the dryer from starting . On gas dryers , it keeps the dryer from heating . The thermal fuse , is a 1" long , or oval , white piece , with 2 wires going to it ) . Also if it does not glow red , the igniter itself could be bad . Again , check with an ohm meter . If the igniter glows red and clicks off , but no gas , the sensor could be bad . This sensor , is mounted to the side of the burner box , and when the igniter gets hot enough to ignite the gas , the sensor opens , sending power to the coils , which open dispensing the gas to heat the dryer . To check the sensor , with the drum removed , start the dryer , and after the igniter gets red , pull one of the wires OFF the sensor , and the gas should ignite . Do this very carefully , as electricity WILL be in the wire pulled off . If the dryer heats for a short time then stops heating , the problem will be the burner coils . These coils will get warm from the electricity going thru them , and will " open " ( short ) internally , until they cool down . Then heat again for a short time , then open , until cooled .
Most of the time , either the thermal fuse ( 1 ) or the coils are bad ( 2 ) or the igniter is bad ( 3 ) .

........A thermal fuse is a white 1" long torpedo looking piece , or , a white oval shaped piece , with 2 wires going to it .

NOTE1 : The thermal fuse keeps an electric dryer from starting and keeps a gas dryer from heating .

NOTE2 : If your dryer heats but the clothes do not dry , then a venting problem is obvious , as a dryer either heats or doesn't heat . Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent from the dryer . Dry a load of clothes and if/when they dry in the normal amount of time , this tells you either the vent hose is kinked , maybe pushed back too far , or , the outside vent is blocked , or , the vent in the wall is restricted to the outside .

Electric Dryers

NOTE3 : If your lint screen is on top of the dryer , the element , thermal fuse , and thermostats are behind the rear dryer panel ....If the lint screen is behind the dryer door , then the element , thermal fuse ( located behind the lint screen housing ( 2 screws ) , and thermostats , are located behind the lower front panel .

on Apr 17, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer is running, but doesn't have heat.


All electric dryers use 220-240 volts of electricity to run. The elements that make the heat are what actually need the 220 volts, the motor that turns the drum only uses 110. If you have a fused service disconnect box, replace both fuses, as one side is gone. 220/240 is made up of two 110/120 lines coming in, if one fuse, one side, blows, then all that's left is the 110/120 needed to run the drum motor, but no 220/240 to run the heat element. If there is no service disconnect then check the breaker than runs the dryer, flip it off and then back on to see if that makes any difference. Sometimes it will. Then there's the possibility that the hi-limit thermostat on the heat chamber in the machine blew, letting the drum run, but not feeding the coils. If you're not real handy with tools you may want to call a repair tech for this one.

Apr 22, 2011 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

1 Answer

Our dryer won't heat and i have continuity through heating element i also checked and made sure that there is 240 going to the dryer and there is


check your heat or thermal disks. These are about the diameter of a quarter and sense the temperature. If faulty they may send signal to the element not to work. I think they are a normally closed device and bimetallically operate to open position when temp is high(regulate temp) Yes there should be 240 volts...120 for motor..120 for heating coils.

Feb 21, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I changed the heating coil on my 80 series kenmore dryer and changed the Hi thermostat. When I try to turn on the dryer it won't do anything, and I noticed as soon as I plug the Dryer in the heating coil...


chances are that the heating coil is touching ground some place it must be suspended completely and where it passes through the steel it must have an insulator (Caution this is a fire hazzard ) what's happening (if you care) is that the heating element is 240 volts in our electrical system either one of the wires that makes up that 240 volts to ground will give you 120 volts so at some point your element is grounded giving it 120 volts more than enough to make it glow red.... for some reason beyond my comprehension our electrical safety authority has decided that in a residential dryer only one live wire needs to be interupted leaving the other wire live Good luck ...sorry about the rant I,ve seen this exact problem about a dozen times

Oct 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer stopped heating up so I tried to fix the heating element. I noticed in the other one that some of the coiles broke in half so I knew this was the problem. Well I bought a new one, hooked it up and...


Could be a defective element, but it also could be your thermostats faulty...give them a check.
Normally you can only hook up the heating coils one way...I do not believe that would be the problem.
Hope this helps

Sep 29, 2009 | Whirlpool LEN2000PW Dryer

1 Answer

There isnt much heat and take too long to dry


Check the vent system first. Make sure that it is not restristed by lint. I have even seen a bird making a nest in an outside vent. The next most likely thing is that one of the heater coils is burnt out. The drier would then only be using one half of the coils and running on 120 volts instead of 240 volts.

Mar 15, 2009 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag Dryer working but not heating up.


possible air flow problem,, check exhaust hose and sure not clogged up needs air flow, if long dry times repl/ coils/ only on gas models /if electric./ repl/ hi limit thermostat,// and safety thermostat ,,u need 240 volts 120 to turn on dryer and another 120 to heat ......

Nov 30, 2008 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

MY drier heating element shows 9 ohms continuity, it also shows 120 volts into and out of it when the drier is running. But the heating element wont heat up?


Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.

Oct 17, 2008 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm


Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.

Aug 23, 2007 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

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