Refrigerators Logo

Related Topics:

A
Anonymous Posted on Jul 10, 2014
Be the first to answer

I have a refrigerator GE TFX27PF the FF is flashing, no cool air,fan is working, I replace the DEFROST HEATER & HARNESS(WR51Xo443)and DEFROST THERMOSTAT(WR50X0122)and the DEFROST TIMER/CONTROL(WR09X0489) but is not geting colder(Flashing FF),please help,THANK YOU

Answer This Question

5 Related Answers

Mike Inman

  • 219 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 24, 2009

SOURCE: warm temp

u have a defrost problem if u shut it down 4 or 5 hrs with doors open then turn back on itll work tii u have it fixed

Ad

Robin low

  • 28 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: Will not stay cool

seems that you have already streamed down to the defrost timer. You will also need to check on the door seals to be sure that there is not leak, improper seal will also cause freezing of the evaporator.

Anonymous

  • 2605 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 27, 2009

SOURCE: My freezer is now my fridge, and my fridge doesn't

You mentioned the back of freezer was covered with ice. It sounds like a defrost problem. A problem that has been unseen for quite awhile by the sounds of it. In extreme cases you may have to shut it off completely, unpluged and doors open for 24 hrs. or more. Once the unit has defrosted completely, it will cool normally...for a little while. Check the defrost heater and dts (defrost termination switch) and defrost timer or electronic control. If you're not sure, manual defrosting will by you some time (maybe a week) to have a pro look at it for you. Good luck

Anonymous

  • 44 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 08, 2010

SOURCE: defrost heater mnot completely defrosting

unplug it and get your hair dryer remove the panel again and blow dry the entire thing untill all is melted be carefull not to over do ad not to put dryer in the freezer stand back where the water will not splash on the dryer after leave it off for 1 hour than turn back on and put setting on number 3 for 2 to 3 hours than adjust to your normal setting not higher than 5 or it will repeat problem.It is getting very well cool causing to over cool to fast.
also air spray out back side and bottom of refrigerator is always a big help
Good Luck

Anonymous

  • 58 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 18, 2010

SOURCE: My refrigerator does not defrost.

You need to check the mother board. There are usually visible burn marks on it. In any case if your heater and thermo are good it can only mean you need a board.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Defrost timer on TFX27PF
HI SCOTT.a bit vague but i'll assume u mean it blinks but it cools for 4 days and then starts defrosting right?(temp drops u mean it gets warmer NOT colder.) well first i would check your condensing uni thoroughly.check if evaporator is iced up or not.ventilation ok.if iced up defrost all 24/48 hours and try .u could get lucky.if same again check heater and t/stat and defrost timer.if not iced up check refrigerant. fan motors. and compressor.good luck ali
Read full answer
Jul 05, 2012 • GE Refrigerators
4helpful
1answer

FRIDGE button is set on 3, red light flashes, air system works but it is not cool for at least 1 hour, Freezer set on 4 S and works.
Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. Then make sure all the vents are clear and not being blocked by food cartons. One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem
If you find this helpful, a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated for the free advice
Read full answer
Jul 13, 2011 • Microwave Ovens
1helpful
2answers

Model: GSH22JFT (GE side by side) freezer working by refrigerator not cooling.
The most common problem for your model refrig , to stop cooling the ref section , is a shorted defrost heater in the freezer section . Do you see a light layer of frost on the rear inside lower freezer wall ? Do you hear the fan in the freezer working ? If you have the frost , you will need to remove the rear inside freezer panel ( 2 screws ) , and at the bottom of the coils , is the defrost heater . Part number WR51X10101 . This replacement heater , comes with 2 heaters , due to the old 1 heater burning out so often . The part , sometimes comes with a wire extension , since the blue wire will have to be moved over to the right , with the orange wire , to make it long enough to fit , and sometimes doesn't come with the extension , in which case , you will have to make one . It's also best , to replace the defrost thermostat ( bimetel ) while the panel is off also . Part number WR50X10068 .
Read full answer
Oct 25, 2009 • GE GSH22JFTSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...
0helpful
1answer

My freezer is now my fridge, and my fridge doesn't cool hardly at all. It runs continually. Frost is built up on back of freezer. Right now it's flashing FF on the front. We cleaned the back with an air...
You mentioned the back of freezer was covered with ice. It sounds like a defrost problem. A problem that has been unseen for quite awhile by the sounds of it. In extreme cases you may have to shut it off completely, unpluged and doors open for 24 hrs. or more. Once the unit has defrosted completely, it will cool normally...for a little while. Check the defrost heater and dts (defrost termination switch) and defrost timer or electronic control. If you're not sure, manual defrosting will by you some time (maybe a week) to have a pro look at it for you. Good luck
Read full answer
Sep 27, 2009 • GE Refrigerators
0helpful
1answer

Ge freezer works fine but the fridge wont cool.you
How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.


If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Read full answer
Sep 14, 2009 • Refrigerators
2helpful
1answer

I have a GE TFX28PB with an FF error light.
FF probably stands for "Frost Free". Yes. Your defrost circuit must have a temp sensor to tell it when the defrost is working. And for your fridge...it isnt.

The warm fridge/barely cold freezer are both common symptoms of extreme frosting of the cooling coils.

You need to manually defrost this unit and replace the defrost element and/or the controller board/power supply. You can buy them pretty cheaply online. Replacement is a lot easier if you just shut off the fridge and let it come to room temp before removing the coil cover.

Go to the GE website and get an online diagram of your fridge so you can see where the parts all reside. If you timer is mechanical it should have a way to manually trigger it to confirm the heater element works. IC based boards need special commands to go manual.....but you should be able to get this info from GE.

Good luck and be careful.
Read full answer
Sep 09, 2009 • GE PFS22SISSS Stainless Steel French Door...
1helpful
1answer

Ge fridg and freezer not cold; just cool; TFX 20JR; what could the problem be?
The problem is probably the defrost heater . This model is at least 12 yrs. in age . Pt # WR51X442 is the part number for the heater and harness kit . These parts are located behind the inside rear lower freezer panel . First , make sure the freezer fan is working . If not Pt # WR60X10008 is the freezer fan motor .
Read full answer
Sep 07, 2009 • GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator
0helpful
1answer

GE Model # DSS25PFMD WW, lights and fan are working not cooling
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Read full answer
Aug 21, 2009 • GE GSS25JEM Side by Side Refrigerator
3helpful
1answer

Freezer works fine but frig does not get cold at all
My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
 
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall.  On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor. 
Read full answer
Apr 03, 2009 • GE Profile 21.7 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...
3helpful
1answer

Warm temp
u have a defrost problem if u shut it down 4 or 5 hrs with doors open then turn back on itll work tii u have it fixed
Read full answer
Mar 24, 2009 • GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Not finding what you are looking for?

View Most Popular

Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Dispenser TFX27PRBWW

  • Refrigerators

Related Question

Defrost timer on TFX27PF

  • GE Refrigerators

395 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Popular Questions

GE Side by Side refrigerator door handles yellowing

GE GSH22JFR Side by Side...

GE Profile Refrigerator Ice/Water dispenser not working

GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel...

GE refrigerator wiring diagram

GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side...

Howling noise

GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side...

GE refrigerator not cold but Freezer works fine

GE J Series 18.2 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

Top Refrigerators Experts

vince

Level 3 Expert

2530 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

6688 Answers

Johnny 1000

Level 2 Expert

94 Answers

Are you a Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

PDF Manual
Manual for Ge Profile model TFX24PR....

Profile 26.6 cu. ft....

Loading...