Can't change temperature stays at 35 C degree

Hi Jim.

There are a couple of possible root causes here:

1. The temperature at the thermostat isn't as high as in the rest of the house. Drafty window or door near the thermostat, no heat vents near by. Any of these, or other things leading to cool air by the actual thermostat, can lead to heat staying on. The thermostat controls temperature by sensing temperature whereever it's mounted - you don't for instance, want it mounted directly above a floor vent. If the thermostat itself is cool, then it thinks the whole house is cool and keeps the furnace running.
2. The temperature sensor in the thermostat is isolated from the surrounding air. The temperature sensor for the thermostat is usually inside the unit. Of airflow into the unit is blocked by nearby stuff, a cluster of dust bunnies, or a large piece of tape or ribbon holding the just-hung holiday decoration, then that outside air might take a while to get to the sensor. Make sure that there are no overt blocks to any vent holes in the unit. If you have a fine-cleaning/crevice tool attachment for a vacuum, you can use it to pro-actively suck dust off of/out of the thermostat.
3. The sensor is broken/disconnected. Electronic parts do fail sometimes. If the sensor just keeps reading 55 degrees, or some other low temp, it may be that the thermostat itself is kaput. Fortunately, they're not very complicated to replace.
4. To test / troubleshoot, start by clearing / vacuuming the thermostat. Then, if possible, get a hair dryer and after the furnace has run to 'too hot in the house', blow warm/hot air on the thermostat for a few minutes. If the furnace shuts off, then the thermostat is picking up the temperature change, it just is not reading it very well. Sometimes there are calibrations/re-calibrations that can be done. You'd have to get / look at the documentation for your particular unit on that. If there is no change when you use the hair dryer for a couple of minutes, I'd lean then to the sensor being bad, or something else in the controls being post-warranty.
   
   Good Luck!
   D

Hello Jeff;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

That tells me your unit is working normally. If it was running continuously then you have a problem.

1.) Every 8-10 hours your unit will shut down except for the lights. At this time your defrost heater will come on for 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling coils. Then your unit will come back on.

2.) You compressor will turn on when your have reached 10-20 degrees below temperature. It will shut off when you have reached 10-20 degrees above your set temperature.

3.) The normal settings for your freezer is -2 to 2 degrees F. and the normal setting for your fresh food section is 35-40 degrees F.

4.) Make sure you clean your condensing coil. This dissipates the heat from your unit every 6 months. This coil is either in the bottom front or a canister located in the lower left hand side in the back of your unit. Unplug your unit if you have a canister.

These unit time freeze time and harvest times and keeps track of them. If your freeze time exceeds 35 minutes or harvest time exceeds 3 minutes, it will place unit in lockout. The biggest cause for excessive time to harvest is the harvest valve not functioning properly, and undercharged unit or a dirty condenser. The most probable cause is a dirty condenser. Under charged units can be determined by checking compressor outlet temperature while running, it should be 150 to 190 degrees depending on atmospheric conditions present. If it is harvest valve, the downstream temperature will stay at or near compressor discharge temperature. It should cool down to ambient temperature in a few minutes after freeze cycle begins.

Clean the condensors coils that are on back or bottom of refrigerator. Compressed air works the best but little messy. Hope this helps.

you mean it is only staying on for 35 minutes, if this is the case, then readjust or replace thermal coupling, if bad it will not sense the flame or pilot light. it has to be in pilot light flame as to work properly. ( this is for a gas hot water heater). if bad it will shut gas off to heater.

Good day,
35 minutes would be considered nominal. That is the amount of time needed to heat up the cooling coils behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, and then allow it to drain the condensate water out the drain.

The defrost cycle is made up of 2 parts.
The first part involves shutting all fans and compressor off, and turning on the heater/heaters mounted on the bottom of the cooling coil to above freezing. About 10 to 15 minutes.

The second half occures when a defrost thermostat mounted on the top of that coil senses the coil is above freezing. It cuts the power to the heaters, and lets the system just idle, while the water is allowed to drain out of the drain.

If that tstat is working properly, the food temperature is affected slightly but never to an above freezing condition.
The thermostat is a small 1" round disk clipped to the top of the coil.

Only one possibility, but that tstat could be hanging allowing the freezer coil compartment to reach a very high temperature. If so, it needs replaced.

You should also check to see if both fans and compressor start running as soon as the cycle is done.

make sure the system switch is in the cool position, then press run program button and allow a couple of minutes for system to cycle on, if it doesn't come on press the button for lowering the set point, set it to 72 degrees and then press the hold temperature key.

Jim,
A couple of questions... What makes you think the oven is off that far? If you have a set on the shelf dial type thermometer, throw it away. They are never accurate and generally read 50+ degree too low. I recommend the "biscuit test". Which is simply a cheap can of "hit on the edge of a counter top to open" biscuits and see how they bake with the instructions on the can. Make sure you allow the oven to preheat for 20-30 minutes (always but especially for this test).
To change the oven setting press BAKE, then run the temp up to 550 then immediately press and hold the bake pad for 10-20 seconds. The display should read 0 (zero) you can then use the up down arrow pads to adjust, hit bake pad again and then "clear" when done to lock it in but, you can only go up or down 35 degrees. If it is truly off by more than that you would need to change the main oven control board and oven sensor.

ECT switch may be sending faulty readings to PCM. find the switch, visually inspect, and if you can get a multi meter, and find resistance readings for the component bench test for proper operation.