Question about Refrigerators

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Our kitchen aid refrigerator has a single large door on the top and a freezer on the bottom. Five times over the past 6 months we have noticed that the food in the freezer was not really getting cold enough to freeze. i noticed a build up over some vents in the freezer, I switched the fridge off waited for the ice to melt and restarted the fridge >>> alll ok, until the next time. I dont believe that we left the fridge open to cause the ice build up This is becoming a pain

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  • ghorwitz1 Jun 28, 2009

    how much will this cost to fix?, presuming that we didnt leave the door open and there is something broken causing the problem

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Check the door gasket seal for leakage.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Hi
Will you have a look at the evaporator coils inside the freezer. Your refrigerator has a control board inside the fresh food section inside the plastic cover where you adjust temperature.

Most fridges will have a bad heater element, a bad defrost timer (or controller if it is electronic) or most likely a bad defrost limit switch. This is a switch mounted on the inlet line of the evaporator with a clip and senses when the evaporater is defrosted so that it does not get too hot and start melting parts. This switch should have zero ohms of resistance when cold (below 40ish) and be completely open when above 40 or so. The easiest way to test it is take the wall covering the evaporater off and locate the plugs for the swiths. Test continuity through it. If it is sitting in ice, it should have no resistance. If it is open and in ice (infinite resistance) then it's bad.

Your freezer sounds like the self defrosting function has failed. If the evaporater coil freezes up, it gets really cold, but the air in the top of the freezer gets warm, so you could have stuff towards the top of the compartment melting, while the bottom is super cold. The heating element, thermal limit switch, or the timer could be bad. I am not particularly familiar with this model, but most have a little timer motor mounted behind the toe kick somewhere that contrlos the defrost intervals. The timer sends power through the thermal limit switch, located on the inlet tube of the evaporater (coils that get cold in the freezer) and keeps the heater from over heating. This part is probably the most common failure. From the switch, power goes to the heater element, which is mounted directly to the evaporater. If the heater looks kind of like a bake element style (similar to what you'd find in the bottom of your oven) then its probably not bad. If its a glass tube style, then they fail more commonly. Hope this helps, good luck! P.S. this could all have been caused by a door left slightly ajar overnight too...if you think that may have happened, then just turn it off and leave the door open for a day or 2...it'll defrost and be fine! thanx for contactin Fixya

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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