Can latex paint be added to my conrete floor as I apply epoxy paint?'

Question moved from Cars and Trucks.

Use two part epoxy filler as used on car body repairs. It sands flat and smooth. Yes, you can paint with Latex undercoat and top coat.

PPG basecoat is probably part of a water based wet-on-wet painting system designed so each successive coat can be applied in relatively quick succession and then baked in an oven, followed by the activated lacquer so the whole job can be completed in less than a day.

I had cause to do a minor body repair to a vehicle that had been refinished some months before with the PPG water based paint system - I was surprised to find the base and primer coats were still moist and tacky and the new paint reluctant to adhere to the feathered edge of the PPG paint.

In conclusion I would guess you can apply epoxy primer as in reality it is little different from the epoxy lacquer in the above example...

You can, but it will not adhere well, and will not stand up to wear. Latex is designed for walls and does OK on some types of furniture (depends on material and finish), but not for floors. If it will be in a low traffic area, and you really want to try it, then clean the surface well, let it dry well, and do a small test patch, then give it a few weeks, but I would not count on it being durable under even moderate traffic, especially if the traffic is with something other than smooth soled shoes. Nice idea, though!

simply chip the conrete cracked maybe up to 3cm wide and 2-3 cm deep the whole way and clean thoroughlly with water and the best is to blow air after you wash with water to take away the loose debris then apply concrete epoxy arround the cracks with clean paint brush # 1-2 let it stay for about 30mins and you feel the epoxy is starting to set before then pour the conrete mix with fine sand that will do the trick.

did you ever try to mix water with oil? what was the result? are you sure that you can cross the street without adult holding your hand?

unfortunately you need to remove all that paint, just drop few shovels of fine sand over, and scrape it... sand will adhere to the tp surface of the pain and will allow you to scrape it. after you scrape it off, use any degreaser or similar product to wash reminder off, leave it for few weeks to dry through and then in small patch try if it would accept latex pain, roll it very, very thinly and leave overnight, if it is dry (solid dry) after 24hrs and do not peel off, you can then use this paint on the rest of your garage floor.

now, i would advice strongly against painting garage floor with any paint except concrete paint (they are usually water based with strongly alcalic ph), and after that use concrete seal. this should give you long lasting surface, sealed from oils, dust, water and whatever contaminant you can imagine in the garage.

Remove the latex paint and rough the area before applying. I prefer a 2 part epoxy glue

Paint it with white enamel.
Enamel Paint finishes in high gloss if you want that sort of finish.
Always paint in a dust free invironment with plenty of ventiallation.
With the expensive cost of many home appliances, sometimes replacing an old refrigerator is out of the question, especially if it still works well.
This can be a problem if you've recently painted your kitchen or if you're just sick of looking at an old, outdated fridge.
Instead of learning to live with your boring or unattractive refrigerator, you can give it a bright new look with a few coats of paint.
Mix a few tablespoons of vinegar into a bucket of warm soapy water.
Use this mixture to clean the refrigerator.
Scrub away any grease, dirt or other grime with your soapy water and a stiff bristled scrub brush. Wipe the refrigerator dry with a towel when it is clean.

Use painter's tape to cover parts of the refrigerator you do not want to paint such as the handle or the grate at the bottom of the refrigerator.

Apply a coat of appliance paint to your refrigerator with a paint roller to prime the surface.
You can also purchase appliance paint in a spray can and use it to spray paint your refrigerator.


Sand the paint with an extra fine grit sanding sponge when it is completely dry.
Try to make the surface as smooth as possible and then wipe away any dust created with a clean towel.


Paint the refrigerator with an enamel paint tinted to the desired color and a paint roller.
You can use oil-based or latex-based enamel depending on your preferences.
Oil paints usually have a stronger odor than latex paints but they may last longer.

Apply a second coat of paint when the first coat is completely dry.

Sand the final coat of paint when it is dry with a wet extra fine sanding sponge.
Spray the refrigerator with water while you work to keep it damp and keep sanding until the paint is smooth and shiny.


Remove all of the painter's tape from your painted refrigerator.

You're probably already done with your project by now, but you should wait at least 24 hours, lightly sand, and wipe surface with acetone and a microfiber towel before applying a second coat.

The peeling of the white coating inside of the microwave oven is dangerous in terms of creating a fire hazard and potentially contaminating the food you cook within it. This can be prevented by cleaning up all splatters and spills immediately before using the microwave oven again. You can fix the peeling by replacing the microwave oven or repairing it. To repair it, you will have to remove the peeling coating and then repaint the interior of the microwave with paint that is designed for microwaves in general. Though, if you do this, you will have to let the paint dry up for at least 24 hours. I hope this helps you!

It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

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