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Pop-up-trailer (2000 rockwood freedom 1040 LTD) I seem to have a problem with my heater. Seems like the termostat and the propane is functioning properly. Cause when I turn up the termostat the flame is on but not for long, it shut off. So the blower is blowing cool air. Like I mentioned , I think the propane and the termostat seems to be functioning okay but just wondering if there is a censor that shuts off the flame. Can you please help. tks Vince

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  • vince_sanzar Jun 30, 2009


    Thanks for your response. I would like to correct myself, the 2000 Rockwood Freedom 1940 LTD model and not a 1040.

    It's impossible to unscrew the burner/heater unit from the very small crawl space it is located.

    Also I couldn't find a 90 degree elbow 1/2 inch tube, but I found about a 3/4 inch tube slightly bent and attach it with duck tape. First if you are facing the burner/heater tank , at the bottom of the tank there are 2 possible openings. There are 2 plates which are attached to the tank which are both held by 2 screws.

    The one on the left which is connected to a power/wire is smaller plate which seems to hold 2 prons at the end which one seems like an element and faces very close to the burner inside the tank.

    The second plate is a glass plate so we can see the flame when it is turn on.
    After removing both plates , I then had access to inside the tank, I extended a small brush and managed to brush over the burner small holes. Then I proceeded slide the small tube and turn the shop vac on to BLOW. You were right ..lots of dust came out. Re-assembled everything and started heater at max. 3 attempts were made by heater to ignite propane flame which came on/off 3 times. After flame shuts off for the third time , it does not come back on and blower is blowing cool air.

    The propane flame seems to be alot bigger than before but we still have the same problem.

    wondering if it's the regulator ?? which seems to be attached next to the tank.

    what's my next step?? I loosing patients..

    tks Vince



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There is a switch if you get into unit there is a flap that acuates switch if it doesnt fully engae switch it will shut of i had same problem i bent actuator and lubed switch with silicon oil!!!switch may also be going bad!!!

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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First, I took the entire burner assembly out (shut off pilot and shut off gas supply first, disconnect supply lines to regulator).

Second, I removed the plastic screens at the base of the heater and scrubbed the dust off of them with soap and water (dusty storage area which houses the furnace, the water tank and the cat litter box) and allowed them to dry.

Third, I rigged up a piece of 12" long 1/2" pvc with a 90 degree elbow to my shop vac. Basically just duct tape it and create a seal to the vacuum's hose.

Fourth, buy a baby bottle brush. Gently brush the filter beneath the tank (I needed a light in order to see for this project as well) and inside the tank.

Now, put the vacuum on "discharge" and blow the dust down through
the filter in the bottom of the tank (this is where the 90 degree elbow comes in handy). Put on a mask of some type if dust bothers you - I generated quite a bit. Switch around the hose and put it on "vacuum" mode and **** up all of the dust that you've created, both in the base of the tank and beneath the tank.

I also vacummed the entire area around the tank and have now been
cleaning the screens on a weekly basis. Yes, I know it stinks but
it saved me a service call. Will the tank fail in the future? From what I've read, probably. However, I like to think that the money I save by taking preventative measures will be a deposit on my Bradford White unit when I put it in or have it installed

Thanks for contacting Fixya

Posted on Jun 28, 2009


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vulcan bonaire comfort control External natural gas electronic ignition 2004. ISSUE: Fan blowing only cool air continuously. Forced to kill power to stop it. model is one of the following. MB514E,20E or 30E. Going by mech drawing parts list. i can confirm what type of sensors i have cleaned with very fine sandpaper. flame sensor PN 5441603SP and IGNITER ELECTRODE PN 5441602SP The fault code i see is described as the following. There are x4 LED's. Sequence Left to Right. LEGEND: 1 Flame Sensor 2 Pressure switch 3 OverTemp 4 Diag. R Red G Green S Solid Colour B Blinking LED Behaviour. In order 2RS & 4GS Until i hear ignition. 2RS & 3RB Duration: split second 2RB,3RS & 4GB Duration: split second 3RS & 4GB Duration: Until it has completed blinking x4 times. 3RS Duration 4 seconds Repeat last two mentioned behaviour. in my own opinion, as a safety feature, the unit thinks that it has overheated or is about to. so kills the gas and force feeding cool air to heating components to save it from frying. Does this mean i have fault 04 if so does this mean i may have a faulty igniter or flame sensor or maybe a faulty as described in the mech drawing SWITCH OVER TEMPERATURE 120 degrees celsius. Am i correct here? Is this the over temperature cut out switch? if no one can really pinpoint which part requires replacement, can you at least, in sequence advise which parts to purchase? so then ill just try my luck. i wonder how to properly test if flame sensor, igniter, over temp etc is faulty with a multimeter. do i just perform a continuity test. I wonder what other parts can i test related to this fault im getting.

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