1300/1500 relay welding error and how do I fix this?

if the normally open contacts are stuck (welded) a continuity check with an ohm meter should identify the bad relay.

* F01 - Short circuit motor traic - Book a service engineer.
* F02 - Motor jammed or fan blocked - Book a service engineer.
* F03 - Front thermistor open/short circuit - Book a service engineer.
* F04 - No pump piloting - Book a service engineer.
* F05 - No feedback from the pump - Book a service engineer.
* F08 - Static heater relay with contact welded closed - Book a service engineer.
* F09 - Eeprom is not programmed or not functioning - Book a service engineer.
* F10 - Common of heater open or one shot open - Book a service engineer.
* F11 - No pump connection - Book a service engineer.
* F12 - Communication error between boards - Book a service engineer.
* F13 - Rear thermistor open/short circuit - Book a service engineer.
* F15 - Dynamic heater relay with contact welded closed - Book a service engineer.
* F-17 - Master relay welded closed - Book a service engineer.

F01 - Short circuit motor triac*
F02 - Motor jammed or fan blocked*
F03 - Front thermistor open/short circuit*
F04 - No pump piloting*
F05 - No feedback from the pump*
F08 - Static heater relay with contact welded closed*
F09 - Eeprom is not programmed or not functioning*
F10 - Common of heater open or one shot open*
F11 - No pump connection*
F12 - Communication error between board*
F13 - Rear thermistor open/short circuit*
F15 - Dynamic heater relay with contact welded closed*
F17 - Master relay welded closed* - See more at: http://www.hotpointservice.ie/help-and-advice/error-codes/#sthash.nR8Jb1cP.dpuf

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_32f4b76dad4781c4

I'm going to presume you mean the wire feed does not stop? If so, the problem is in the motor relay which operates on the trigger along with the weld power since most MIGs do not have OCV on the tip until the trigger is depressed. Keep in mind that, besides failure to open, some relays can be held closed due to current leakage or a faulty ground on the electromagnet coil. The issue is like this... your wire feed relay is in parallel with a larger relay to switch on the primary power of the weld transformer. The larger relay is grounded to the same chassis as the ground of the weld output. Because of a failed diode/rectifier that output can include a low voltage AC or half-wave that will bleed across to the motor relay, keeping it on indefinitely. If this is the case, sticking the ground clamp onto an earth grounded water pipe may stop it. If it does, fix the diode or ground connection. Also check the ground of your power cable. The 24vac control voltage transformer should also be checked for ground to the welder chassis.

model # XS1500??/// always tell full model
what matters is not front words
but USB rear tag model shows. side tag this one
BX1500G?<< bingo right?
the tag coded model shows not only then real model but, version and the country code.!!!

it is not only relays.
but also the relay control logic that can fail
and finding that is never easy. due to....
apc said it needs service.
relay stuck is a better word , not just welded shut.(arc'd)

the relays fail all can. (bypass relay top fail)
as can control to them fail
one relay is dead or stuck closed
or its input logic to cpu chip is failing inside the UPS.
learn to run powerchute app, see logs
see errors,
if relays are bad or their inputs
the card mobo is bad.
APC does not sell cards. spares
nor do that fix them, sent in,
the do have service contracts, buying late is no good.
they have no schematics real, the service manual has good quasi schematics but the manuals are super hard to source.
is is one example of one rare , leaked

https://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/90124/APC_apc%20smart-ups%20rt3000%20rt10000.html

only some are leaked
best is to buy a good used UPS
and use 1 for spare parts.


the powerchute 3.1 for it is here

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/PowerChute-Personal-Edition-v3-1/P-SFPCPE31

the data port uses a special cable to top right rear jack.
the powerchute, works,
this PC came new with cable and CD.
lost that?
then read the logs using powerchute.

2 cause
bad relay ( called welded or stuck) or bad other ways,
or logic the drives said relay bad.
bypass the bypass error, LOL
no such, ana-mule.(sic)

Your error is an overheat error. Odds are that the control board is shot, either the electronics controlling the relay are bad or the contacts of the relay are welded together.
What is your model number?

I had this exact problem after a major power out: Fault, call support: AVR Relay weld.
I fixed it by resetting the UPS: Remove battery connect at rear of UPS (it is marked, just unplug the bat connect tab). Plug the UPS back in, and then turn on. Let it power up... it will tell you it needs a battery. Next, power it down and unplug. Plug the batter connect back in (see rear). Plug in the UPS.. power up. Presto.. it is reset. If it is NOT reset, there may be a real 'relay weld'.

Hi

f15 means heater relay on pcb is welded closed
which basically means the pcb has failed and needs replacing.

regards

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck..,,
thanks