Model # LER3624EQO (or) 0 (Last character is a letter O or numeral 0. I can't tell for sure) This is a front loading electric dryer approx 10 yr old. Dryer will not run, timer works and can be herd ticking, stops when front door is opened. Start switch displays continuity when depressed. I have checked for this on all fuses and switches with good readings on all except 1. My question; The thermal (196 degree F) fuse, not resettable, connected by Blue wires, between the drive motor and timer switch does not show continuity when checked with a multimeter. Is this a normal indication for this switch or an indication that it could be bad? Resistance readings on this fuse come up infinite. Any help would be appreciated.
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Re: 196 degree non resettable thermal fuse
That is the thermal fuse. It must read closed for the dryer to work. You can connect the two wires together to check the rest of the system, but don't run it with them crossed for normal drying. Many times this is an indication that the high limit switch is sticking or the duct is clogged with lint causing a high temp situation.
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#1 reason of dryers going bad is woman's bra's....the medal sewed in the cloth itself for support comes out and goes into the small holes and hits the heating element on both sides and shorts it out...Change the heating element....It's in back of dryer.
Just put a multimeter on it. 0 ohms could mean it's open circuit. Switch multimeter to "continuity" and you should get a beep or a buzz if it's still intact. If you get nothing then it's open circuit and should be replaced. If you test it with heat you will probably burn it out if it's not already broken.
The model number posted doesn't to exist but one for sure is that all Whirlpool Electric Dryers do have a thermal cut-out (off) which is actually a non-resettable fuse located on the heater housing. Click on the link below then enter the exact model of your dryer then select and click bulkhead and locate the part named thermal cut-out/off, a non-resettable fuse.
you're doing the right thing except for changing out the element without reading it out first.when you check the parts make sure the dryer is unpluged and that you pull at least one of the wires off the part you're checking. check the thermostats on the heater box part
279769 which is part 47,also remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and clean it,if you have a long vent line remove it from the back of the dryer and blow it out with a leaf blower and if you have a shop vac put it on blow and blow off the motor and blow all the lint from the back inside of dryer so it blows to the front and vac it up so you don't have to pull the drum if you don't want to.the thermal cutoff pops when it gets to hot in the dryer most likely from a back up in the vent line or the duct,also go outside and make sure the vent is clear,you should be fine
The thermal fuse is located on the outside of the blower housing. To get access to the thermal fuse you will need to remove the back panel of your Whirlpool dryer. How do you check it: Before you do any repairs on your dryer, you will need to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet.
After removing the back panel, remove one wire from the Whirlpool dryer thermal fuse and take a reading between the two terminal on the thermal fuse.
The reading should be 0 ohms, if the reading is infinity, the thermal fuse is bad and it must be replace. When you find a bad thermal fuse, you will need to replace the operating thermostat too.
The operating thermostat opens at 155 degrees and the thermal fuse blows at 196.
These means that operating thermostat did not open at 155 and that is why the thermal fuse failed.
This could be the non resettable thermal fuse has popped, or the door switch is not working. Open the door and press on the door switch until it clicks and push start to see if it works. If it clicks and still no start, then the thermal fuse needs replaced. UNPLUG the dryer, remove the back and you will see the white thermal that looks like a regular thermostat with 2 wires on it. It is located on the air plenum. There could be 2 depending on the exact model, but normally only one white one. These thermals usually pop when the temperature gets too hot as a warning something needs checked. Check your vent and be sure it is absolutely clear, and the flapper on the outside is not stuck with lint buildup.
first its not the fuse or thermal fuse
if that was bad you would not get tumble
it is your heat package
remove the back panal, lower right is you heat
making sure the unit is unplugged disconnect the heat 3-4 wires and one 5/16 nut on the left lip
take out the heat and visualy inspect,,,