Amana Cooling Condensing Unit fan stops spinning after 15 mins
I have 6 years old Amana Cooling Condensing Unit VCA42B2D (out side
heat pump?) at my house. For the last few days the outside unit fan
will stop spinning after 15 mins and then the unit keeps making humming
noise. The cool air stops flowing. The fan will run again if I switch off the unit for a few hours but again stop in about 15 mins.
The unit system seems to be getting hot when the fan is not running.
I had a technician come and have a quick look at it but he could not decide.
What could be the reason?Capacitor? Relay? Motor? Any ideas?
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Re: Amana Cooling Condensing Unit fan stops spinning...
Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.
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This means that only your fan and emergency electric heater is working. The good thing is that we know the fan works. The bad thing is that the condensing unit isn't kicking on. Put your unit into regular heat and go outside to your condensing unit and see if it is running. If it's not, check your breaker and fuses at the outside unit to make sure the breaker is on and the fuses are good. Post back with what you find out and we can go from there.
Check the blower motor capicator. It should be mounted close to the motor with 2 wires to it (brown,brown/white).
Turn the blower on the thermostat and spin the squirrel cage by hand and see if it runs after by itself. If it does then definitely the capicator is bad .If it still doesn't run then check to see if there is voltage going to motor.
If thermostat is calling for fan and there is voltage present at the motor terminal then the motor is bad
It's the run capacitor for your fan. You'll need to pull it out and replace it. Look on Youtube about how to replace a condensing fan run capacitor. Make sure you get the same voltage and microfarad rated capacitor. Make sure you also disconnect the power to the unit. You can get the part at any HVAC parts house or Grainger. Should cost around $15
Have you checked the high and low pressure switches on the unit? If you are cycling on and off, look at your pressure switches to see if they are opening during operation. Also, when was the last time you cleaned out the condensing unit coils with soap/degreaser and clean water?
If you have high humidity or the door gets opened a lot, the evaporator coil may need a good defrosting. There are defrosting devices in the unit like the timer, heating coils, thermostats that could be bad. There should also be a small fan in the freezer that transfers the air to the refrigerator section. If that's not spinning only the freezer will work.
If you find the fan and it's working you can do a thorough manual defrost by removing the food, unplugging the unit and letting it set for a day with the doors wide open. Have some big towels handy :)
After a day, plug it in and see what it does (don't add food, yet). If it cools down then you will know that the compressor is still good and it's worthwhile to fix.
Easy fixes: Timer and fan. Moderate fix (cheap part - more labor) - Defrost thermosat Pain in the **** fix: Defrost heaters.
be aware that not repairing this asap that you are causing yourself more problems First I would change out the fan capacitor and see if this could be the problem. Secondly if the capacitor isn,t the problem change out the motor . By continuing to allow the system to cycle like this the compressor will take a dive on you costing more . Good Luck
First of all, clean your outside coils so that you are assured of good cooling air. The compressors have an overtemp device that is usually internal to protect them against heat. If you have an air compressor use it to blow out the coils good. If the compressor will start, the capacitor is good so it sounds like a cooling problem with the compressor
first thing is that if u in fact have voltage to the furnace and condensing unit check the primary and secondary sides of the transformer on the furnace. if you dont have 120 on the xfrmr test the door switch and 120 v connection to outlet. if you are good there check the secondary side of the transformer and see if u have 24 volts leaving the trans. if you have 24 v leaving the trans. you should have 24 to the stat if there is not a blown fuse on the control board. check the transformer for power. if there is power there see if theres a fuse on the control board at the furnace. if thats not blown check stat operation pull stat off and jump r to y which should engage cooling. jump r to g which should engage fan. this is all of course if u have a standard a/c and not a heat pump unit. if u can jump cooling or fan replace the stat. let me know more when u get there.