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Maytag refrigerator Model MSD2758DR icing in

I have a Maytag refrigerator Model MSD2758DR icing in freezer. I have replaced the defrost themostat & heater below coils. Where is the Defrost timer? Thanks

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  • smithgn1 Jul 01, 2009

    Is this a control timer that you can manual turn? or adaptive control timer circuit board? Thanks

  • bill williams
    bill williams May 11, 2010

    unplug the frige first !!! top right corner of fresh food compartment 68233-2 is part # there are two finger holes at the back of the cover pull down and tward you then two screws holding control plate and one in the rear by the filter into the back this takes some finess wiggling and maby a cuss word or two. be carefull these parts break really eazy two more screws hold the timmer in place good luck!!!



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: freezer side ok, refrigerator side not

check to make sure the damper door in between the freezer and refrigerator section is opening fully as you turn the cold control knob colder,some freeze up due to ice formation if so remove it and clean up ice on damper so it can open fully

Posted on Dec 24, 2009

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: frozen evap coil

In the upper food section in the middle of the light/temp control panel.

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

  • 6784 Answers


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

  • 2699 Answers

SOURCE: MAYTAG MBR2256KES Is a defrost

with the model number you sent you don't have a timer you have a jazz board in your machine,it's a computer board located behind the touch pad where you set the temps in the fridge section and the timer isn't the same as the defrost thermostat.let me ask you this is the frost on the back inside wall of the freezer or on the ceiling and frozen water droplets on the packages,a common problem with bottom mount freezers is the door gets left open mostly from a food package in the way,you push the door in,it hits the package,it feels like the door closed but it's open and warm air gets in and freezes up the air ducts.if it's on the back wall you have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,defrost heater or computer board.if it's a defrost problem remove the bottom kickplate and look for the tech sheet,it will tell you how to put the machine into defrost,i think you open the door,hold in the lite switch,press the down arrow three times on the fridge setting,let go of the lite switch,press down again and you'll see an s,prees down again and you're in defrost,shut the door,but check that on the tech sheet,listen in the freezer,the fan shouls shut down and if it did go into defrost you'll hear a crackling sound,if the compressor is still running most likely the board is bad,,i can help you out if it's a defrost problem but first let me know if it looks like the door was left open or the inside back panel is covered with like snow or frost.

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

  • 1196 Answers

SOURCE: Sporatically the defrost cycle seems

The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

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The timer should last a lot longer than that, but I have received bad ones right out of the box. Depending on model year, the full current of the compressor and the defrost heater are present in the defrost timer contacts. The defrost heater should be checked with a volt-ohm meter if continued icing takes place. The defrost heater will have a positive ohm reading if it is okay. If the meter reads infinity or 0.0 ohms, the heater is bad.

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This is good! This indicates a defrosting system failure which is a simple control problem. It also means that the sealed system (compressor, evaporator coil, and all associated tubing) is fine as wine in summertime. Defrost system problems are easy fixes that anyone with a pulse can do with maybe just a little help from their friends. The problem will either be the defrost timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control board, if so equipped), the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heater. To locate these parts in your fridge, check out these cool, interactive parts diagrams.
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You should now see an ice or frost clogged coil and fin assembly, a heater clipped to the fins and a sensor attached to a portion of the aluminum cooling tube (these last two items will be visible only after defrosting). The last item - the "sensor" is really called a "defrost terminator". It is a thermally operated device - much like a thermostat. It is open or off at around 50 degrees and higher and closed or on below about 50 degrees. Defrost as needed, but do not do it by chipping away at the ice! Damage to the coil will be very costly to repair - better to use a blow dryer to quicken the process rather than tools and sharp objects for chipping.

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Tools needed: small sockets or nut drivers, common straight & phillips screw drivers, maybe wire cutter / crimper, maybe an insulated **** splice for the size wire to be cut or other suitable wire connector.

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