Question about Whirlpool Duet 3.8 cu. ft. Front Load Washer
Also, the cu/ft of a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II Quiet Dry Model # LEQ7030KQ1. Thanks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tip the washer backward, inspect the bottom of the gearcase for oil. If oil is present, the oil has migrated to the clutch causing it to slip during spin. The gearcase and clutch will have to be replaced if oil is present. Check the owners manual for limited warranty on the gearcase. If oil is not present, the clutch is just worn and should be replaced.
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
does dryer heats up if yes take hose out from back of your dryer run dryer if you have good power air coming out from your dryer i think your dryer is fine you need to clean your air vent. system.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
Take note of your symptoms:
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.
2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.
If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
I have the same problem, and i think it is a problem with the agitator i pulled mine off, (remove softener insert below that is a seal easily removed and then a 7/16'' bolt) seems a 'clutch' mechanism between base and upper agitators is shot.
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
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