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Manitowoc SD 0852A ice maker compressor will not kick-in

This item isn't listed on the product list but we're stuck in the boonies and need some help please!
Machine has been idle for 3 months.working fine before.
Goes through the fill cycle with the water going over the ice plate, (this is where the compressor should kick in) until the reservoir is full... the water continues to run over the plate with neither the compressor or fan kicking in. If you manually press the relay the compressor and fan will start.

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  • karumbasf Jun 28, 2009

    Thanks for the prompt reply bat.

    It gave me pause for a sec but the indicator light for the ice thickness is flashing meaning that the light has to go solid and then the dump light goes on that heats the plate up and dumps the ice all in that sequence.Problem here is the that the when the water goes over the plate (mold) it should kick in the compressor to start chilling down the mold, then once the water in the reservoir hits the water probe it shuts the water off then the fan on the condensor kicks in and then it will start to make ice.

    I'm not sure that there isn't a fault in the circuit board or that the problem is a pressure switch not working.

    Hope you can help.



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Here's my thoughts, I hope it helps. I'm going on foggy memory here, so I may not be entirely correct.
I worked on something like this a few years ago. The icemold (plate) is vertical, there is a circulating pump that runs water over the mold, with the water freezing as it passes. The sealed system is a heat-pump scheme, it freezes the mold to form the cubes, and reverses to heat for release. And when it works, it makes ice fast. It runs constantly until the ice hopper is detected to be full. (there should be a bail to detect the ice level) The system will not run in the event that it thinks the hopper is full (bail up) but the pump motor runs continuous to avoid it freezing. There is probably either a false detection of "full" or there may be a leak in the sealed system and the system will therefore not run.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • Bruce Volkers
    Bruce Volkers Jun 28, 2009

    A pressure switch on this system should check closed across it's terminals. If it checks open it typically means that you've lost refrigerant. Problems with the circuit board may either be the result of a surge, such as lightning if it's been left connected to the line, or a wiring harness connector or the connector pins have bad connections to the board. Again, I can't see what you've got, but if you suspect the board, check it with a good visual inspection. Use a loupe if you have one, looking for seperation of wire lead or connector pin(s) from the solder around it. Pay close attention to any heavier parts on the circuit board, as vibration affects those more. Hope you find it.



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