Re: i replaced the Trane condenser cool my house down
You have the contactor wired improperly. You need to go to the low voltage wires coming from the thermostat. The wire combination you gave sounds like you are looking at the high voltage coming off of the capacitor. If it wont shut off you most likely have the red and yellow wires crossed.
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Are you sure its the condenser fan? The fan is attached to the compressor power and wont run unless the compressor is running. On the other hand the fans inside the cooler will run 24/7 and are designed for continuous duty. If someone has worked on the compressor wiring you may have to re establish the wiring following the wiring diagram. I have seen condenser fans wired in hot areas to run continuously to attempt to cool down a hot compressor or compensate for a worn out or damaged condenser that doesn't get rid of the heat from the system. If that is the case a new condensing unit is probably in your future. Hope this helps good luck.
First the weather is extremely hot mid 90's and humid.I have a Trane combination a/c heat pump system. The A/C was pumping out warm air.I called for a technician and the problem was the compressor was not working.The solution/fix was to replace compressor start capacitor.The technician was here for about an hour.The compressor was running before he left however I informed him the air coming out of the a/c ducts after one hour of run time did not feel as cool as usual. It took from 1pm until 10 pm at night to cool the house air down to 80 degrees and the system ran constantly.I left it on 80 as that is where I usually leave it. Today again it is running all day barely able to keep the house at 80.My home was built in 07 block house, well insulated with thermal double pane insulated windows.I suggested to the tech to check the refrigerant level but he did not think it necessary and did not perform the check while here. The unit will cool the house down to 80 degrees but runs constantly.My question is: Should I have a technician come check out the system to insure proper refrigerant levels and pressure????????
Hi, I want you to try a couple of things for me if you will. Go to the thermostat and remove the cover. Now if you have a small bladed screw driver, loosen all the screw on this next section and remove it. Turn off power to the unit, if it is a split system, turn off the indoor unit. Once you remove this section which is the thermostat you will see the subbase and wiring. Take the red wire loose and off of the terminal. You may have a red jumper wire going from RH to RC. Remove the red wire coming into the stat at either point. Give it a minute and see if the fan stops now. If it does, you will need to replace the stat. If not, depending on the age of your unit, if your high limit/fan control tripped, that will be the problem. Some units have a fan control combination high limit that trips causing the fan to run all the time. You need to take a look at your heater section at the front of it to see what kind you have. If it is a combination fan/limit. it will be inserted into the fire box. It is square looking box with a cover on it some with a auto/ manual button on them Sometimes the contats will stick causing the fan to run. They can be removed with power off and cleaned up. They will have a dial with a temperature reading on them which tells the fan to come on when it reaches this set-point and off when it cools down. It may have stuck closed. Check what I have told you with the stat, and this and let me know the age of heater and if it is a split system Trane with a remote condenser and furnace located somewhere else. Get back to me on this. Shastalaker7
I hate to use rules of thumb but 500sqft per ton depending on your windows and insulation. you are probably ok with a 2.5 ton however it will not work with a 3 ton outdoor unit as you have figured out. depending on how long that ac has been in you may want to replace it with a 2.5 ton due to the damage to the compressor valves because of the mis match. or if the indoor is newer and the original system may have been a 3 ton then i would replace the A/H. and be prepared to replace the outdoor if the valves are to far gone. If the trane is a new high effiency 2 and the goodman is just a 10 SEER you may be able to have a txv installed on the trane unit and a kickstart device outside. but only if its a high effiency but their again if the A/C fails you couldnt have a high effiency 3 ton you would have to drop down to 2.5,
Found system was slowly loosing coolant through a variety of miniscule leaks in rusting part of condenser. Apparently coolant level had dropped sufficiently in the blower repair interval to where the system no longer functioned with adequate efficiency. Bottom line - low coolant level as is the first suggestion in most related ac repair forum sites. I'm buying a Trane, this system is no longer economically feasible to maintain.