Maytag electric wall oven makes tick tick tick sound. Noise stops when light is switch ON or when bulb is removed.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor
is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

othing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1. Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown? Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2. Power cord plugged in? Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3. Power cord damage? Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4. A clicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6. Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse
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Oven Control Board
The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.
Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advicebcuzGod is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor
is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

Your owner's manual should show how. No manual, try manualslib.com
My old sears microwave light bulb is in the upper front left hand with bulb top up and socket down but behind a screen. There are screws to remove the upper fan apparatus, which appears to make the side available to extract the bulb. Probably a very special bulb, so I would get one before going to that trouble. It might also be the switch that is bad rather than the bulb. That probably requires removing the outer surrounding cover.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!
Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.
On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a
fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3. Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )
Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the contrl

BE SURE TO CHECK FOR A BLOWN FUSE AS WELL

you have melted internal wiring, probably some mice ate it. call an electrician and DO NOT USE IT!! turn off at the wall/fusebox

The heating coils in the oven need to be inspected very carefully where they plug in to the oven wall. You will need to remove the back covers and check the insulators and wiring harnesses. Over time the insulation can break down and oxidize the metal connections. You can use a voltmeter or test light to verify that the coils are getting voltage from the thermostat/switch. replacing parts is cheaper than buying new if you can find the parts.

Probably a spillage or boil over has clogged the burner and some of the liquid has dampened the shank switch mounted on the burner post. Get a shop vac and clean the burner. Wait a day or 2 and see if the switch stops. OR disable the ticky ticky by removing the bottom drawer and looking for the spark module. Remove one of the hot wires and tape it up. Light the burners like granny does with a match. LOL

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

One or more of the control switches has shorted out. This usually happens when you wash the knobs. Water stays in the holes and runs down the shaft when you put them back on. Maytag /Jenn air have had recalls on some models for this problem as it can start a fire under some conditions. UNPLUG THE COOKTOP UNTIL THIS IS FIXED!!! You can still light it with a match. Check Maytags Web site for information on this . Some switches can be seperated from the gas valve and replaced sererately. This may be worth fixing. Remove the wires from all switches and re connect them one at a time until you find out which switch/s are bad. If this was left clicking for too long you might have burned out the spark module. If the switches are part of the gas valve, and more than one is bad it may not make sense to fix the cooktop. Remember you can always just disconnect the switch that is bad , use the rest and light the broken burner with a long reach lighter.