Question about GE Washing Machines
Doesnt wash after filling alot of times
Doesnt spin and pump alot of times
This is common in most of the GE and KENMORE models.A good detailed procedure, How to check Lid Switch is Described below :-
You can also order Lid switch from :-
Part number for your model :-
The part number for the switch is: WH12X10334.
Regarding service manual,
As such, for your model is not available at this moment with any of the online vendors.
You can look at one of the most selling Repair Manuals :- ( Common for most of the GE machines ) :-
Hope i helped you.
DO RATE THE SOLUTION.
Thanks for using "Fixya".
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Your washer does not wash and not spin then there three common symptoms causes the trouble. First the filter screens, secondly the water level switch and lid switch. Before checking the filter screens, unplug the washer or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The hot and cold water from your home connect to the water inlet valve on the back of the washer. In each end of the water supply hoses there may be a filter screen to catch debris and prevent it from damaging the washer. The water inlet valve also has filter screens. If the filter screens become clogged, the result is low water pressure, no water or the wrong water temperature. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connecting to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting adequate water pressure and to clear any debris from the line. Inspect the filter screens on both of the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. The screens in the inlet valve are not removable so use caution to avoid damaging them. If you are getting good water pressure and you find no build up of debris, then the inlet valve itself may be faulty. The water level switch (aka pressure switch) senses the water level in the wash tub. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air pressure. When the air pressure reaches a certain level, it triggers the switch. A defective pressure switch can interfere with the cycles that depend upon the switch to indicate when water has filled or emptied from the tub. It can also result in underfilling or overfilling of the tub.The switch routes current from the timer control to the temperature switch and the water inlet valve when the tub needs to be filled. Once full, the pressure switch cuts the current and reroutes it to the motor on the timer control to continue the cycle.Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch.The water level switch has three connectors. Label and disconnect the wires from the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. It will be necessary to test each of the three possible pairs. Lastly the lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing. There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Good luck? Regards: VOTIT
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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