Question about Poulan Pro PP3816AV 38 Cc 16" Anti - Vib Chainsaw

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The trigger sticks in the open position on my pp3816. Can this be repaired or is a new hande required

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Possibly gunk has accumulated inside the handle,preventing the trigger from moving correctly. Try spaying WD40 or other lubricant inside the handle around the trigger. That may loosen up the trigger. Also, try the WD40 on any part of the linkage that you can locate.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009


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My dewalt 18v cordless drill trigger is sticking in the on position. The model is a dc 988

In most cases triggers either work or they have to be replaced. There are no repairable parts in them and lubricating them usually results in more dust sticking to them and the plastic breaks down from the lube and the problems get worse. Try blowing any debris out of the trigger with compressed air while working the switch. If that doesn't work, the replacement trigger for your drill is part number 152274-22 and is fairly easy to replace. Shop around on the web for the part as they run $50 to $70 plus shipping.

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1 Answer

Arrow TR 550 heats up fine but glue stick won't feed by the trigger. If I push the stick with my hand glue does come out, but the trigger seems to "slip" on the glue stick. Any ideas?

The trigger probably really is slipping on the glue stick. If you've changed the type or size of glue recently, try changing back to what you were using, or just something else. Maybe the glue stick is too small, or too slippery for the gun. If not that, then it's a mechanical problem. There are some screws on the side of the gun. With it unplugged and cool, take them out and open the case. It might be stuck together with some internal connections as well as the screws, but jamming a flathead screwdriver in them can usually wedge them apart. With the gun open, move the trigger and look for the parts that move with it in the area where the glue stick goes. If you can find something to attach to these parts to make them just a tiny bit longer, do that. The parts that grip the glue have probably worn down or just don't fit, and the fact that you can tell the trigger is slipping means that it's probably very close to grabbing, but not quite close enough. Any little extension to the grabbing parts should do, but be careful not to block the path of the glue.

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How do I attach the drill bit to the chuck on a ss 120 drill

Well I couldn't find a pix of your drill so I will guess that it is a typical drill. You seem to be asking a very basic question so I will start will all the basic info I can think of.

First you have to know where the power trigger is to make it go.

2nd you have to know where the forward and reverse switch is.

Now with the switch in the forward position squeeze the trigger to make it go. Then gently grab the chuck with your hand while it is going and the center Jaws should close up and come out of the chuck.

Now with the switch in the reverse position squeeze the trigger to make it go. Then gently grab the chuck with your hand while it is going and the cetner Jaws should open up and go into the chuck to a maximum point

Open the jaws enough to put the drill in the jaws then put the switch in the forward position. Put the drill in the chuck, sqeeze the trigger to make it go, and hold the chuck so the jaws close on the drill. All while keeping the drill from falling out of the chuck.

When it closes on the drill and the drill is in straight then hold the chuck as tight as you can while squeezing the trigger to make the jaws close very tightly on the drill. If you have very tender hands you might want to use gloves.

To get the drill out put the switch in reverse, hold the chuck very tightly, and squeeze the trigger to open the jaws off of the drill.

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1 Answer

Need brake circuit diagram for 1991 chrysler new yorker

1991 Chrysler New Yorker Auto Security Wiring Diagram
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Red and Pink
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Starter Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory Positive Wire (+): Black/Orange
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel

Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): Orange/White Or Orange/Violet
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel

Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Pink/Violet
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel

Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel

Dome light Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Dome light Supervision Wire Location: N/A

Trunk Release Positive Wire (+): Black/White (Requires Relay)
Trunk Release Positive Wire Location: At Trunk Release Switch

Horn Negative Wire (-): Black/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Relay In Fuse box

Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Black/Gray
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Ignition Coil

Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch above Brake Pedal

Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Light Green/Orange
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel

Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

Thank You for contacting

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1 Answer

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From your description, you have a problem with your one of the solenoids that may be stuck open. this would require a shop repair.

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