Question about Washing Machines

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I have a kenmore washing machine model 110 92586210. I have replaced the transmission and the machine will drain but not spin. Is it the clutch and if so how do I fix?

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  • grogansnc Jun 27, 2009

    Actually there is no belt on mine. It is a direct drive, there is a clutch that mounts on top of the transmission beneath the drum.

  • grogansnc Jun 27, 2009

    The washing machine is direct drive (no belt)and the "clutch" sits between the transmission and drum

  • grogansnc Jun 27, 2009

    Thanks for the response. As long as I was replacing the transmission I had also replaced the coupling, so that should be good.



    The agitator works so I assume that means that the lid switch is good.



    I will check the water level switch as you suggest. If this is not it what else could it be?



    Again, it fills, agitates, drains, but does not spin.



    Thanks so much for the help.

  • grogansnc Jun 27, 2009

    I need to correct my last statement. it does not agitate.

  • grogansnc Jun 28, 2009

    The switches are both fine. All other wiring connections are solid. Rechecked coupling and that seems to be the problem. The metal center that fits over the motor shaft separated from the white plastic. Checked while I was under that if I turn the coupling on the transmission side that the spindle moves and it does.



    Is there a way to check the basket spin while I have it apart?



    Thanks for the help.

  • grogansnc Jun 28, 2009

    Thanks to all, especially VOTIT, for your suggesstions. It is now working.

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Its same problem dat i hv been dealin.. its easy to fix.. let me go slowely. 1 .Unplug the washing machine, and turn off the water supply to the machine. If necessary, remove the water hoses from the back of the washing machine because they may be in the way of the access panel. 2. Check that the agitator is seated correctly by opening the lid of the washing machine. If it's loose, pop off the top of the agitator--if there is one--and tighten the bolt that holds the agitator in place. Or, in some models, simply pull straight up and then reseat the agitator.
3. Remove the access panel located in the back of the washing machine by unscrewing the screws holding it in place. This allows access to the drive motor.
4. Press on the drive belt that works the agitator. If the belt moves more than 3/4 inch, tighten the belt to fix the spinner problem. If the belt is worn or cracked, replace the belt.
5. Replace the drive motor, if tightening or replacing the drive belt doesn't fix the agitator. Purchase a new drive motor at a wholesale retailer. Disconnect wiring; remove screws holding motor in place and insert new motor. Screw into place, and connect wiring.
6. Check for any black substance leaking under the washing machine. This might indicate a clutch problem, if the washing machine spinner is not working. Contact a professional repairman to replace the clutch.
as per experaince u having clutch..its not dat easy..please contact professional.. n get the right product.. please check.. http://www.affordableappliance.com hope it ws helpful to u.. hope this old guy deserve a drink. >> cheers!!





Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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  • Master
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There are three common causes why the drum does not spin. You must check the motor coupler, the water level switch and the lid switch. In your case you better check up first the motor coupler because you replaced the transmission. Before checking the motor coupler, unplug the washer or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, turn off the water supply to the washer at the valves. Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do. Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler. Secondly the water level switch (aka pressure switch) senses the water level in the wash tub. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air press. A defective pressure switch can interfere with the cycles that depend upon the switch to indicate when water has filled or emptied from the tub. It can also result in under refilling or overfilling of the tub.The switch routes current from the timer control to the temperature switch and the water inlet valve when the tub needs to be filled. Once full, the pressure switch cuts the current and reroutes it to the motor on the timer control to continue the cycle.Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch. The water level switch has three connectors. Label and disconnect the wires from the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. It will be necessary to test each of the three possible pairs. For example in the image below, test pairs 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3. Place a probe on two terminals and note the reading. Now move one of the probes to the other terminal and note the reading. Finally test the third pair and note the reading. The multitester should display a reading of infinity or continuity for each test. In this test two of the pairs should read infinity and one should read near zero resistance (continuity). Now blow gently into the air pressure connection and retest. It should click and you must maintain the air pressure while testing. For the two pairs that read infinity one should now show good continuity. The pair that previously gave of reading of continuity should now give a reading of infinity.If the switch fails either of these tests, it should be replaced.
Lastly the lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switchTest the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multitester. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating
Good luck hopes it may helps.
Regards:
VOTIT

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

  • LORETO LACARON
    LORETO LACARON Jun 28, 2009

    Check the agitator's movement back and forth is important for the cleaning of your laundry. If it doesn't function properly, your clothes won't be as clean as possible. If your agitator does not move, moves only in one direction or its movement is very weak, you will probably need to remove the agitator. Furthermore, in order to inspect the tub for leaks, the clutch assembly, the splines, or to remove the spin drum, you will have to remove the agitator. The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to do some combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off. Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward. If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.



    Regards;

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  • Master
  • 1,952 Answers

The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.




  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many
  • ashers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

  • For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

    Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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    • Master
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    There is no clutch on a washing machine.There is a belt that connects from the electric motor to the drum.If that is ok then the next thing to check is something which looks like a d size battery and it's like a capacitor that boost electric motor to start, check the wiring first and if possible cross check it with a new one as this is a very common fault.Try the parts on ebay as it's cheaper than anywhere else.If this does not solve this problem then it's the control unit which I would check.Get a meter and test the electric motor as well and also look for any wires hanging out which might come off due to vibration..on both the motor and the capacity..If everything is ok then it's defnitely the control unit which can be either manual or electronic depending on the year of manufacture.This part will be quite costly but try ebay again..might be very cheap there.Hope this helps.

    Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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