Question about Washing Machines
Its same problem dat i hv been dealin.. its easy to fix.. let me go slowely.
1 .Unplug the
washing machine, and turn off the water supply to the machine. If necessary,
remove the water hoses from the back of the washing machine because they may be
in the way of the access panel.
2. Check that the
agitator is seated correctly by opening the lid of the washing machine. If it's
loose, pop off the top of the agitator--if there is one--and tighten the bolt
that holds the agitator in place. Or, in some models, simply pull straight up
and then reseat the agitator.
3. Remove the access panel located in the back of the washing machine by unscrewing the screws holding it in place. This allows access to the drive motor.
4. Press on the drive belt that works the agitator. If the belt moves more than 3/4 inch, tighten the belt to fix the spinner problem. If the belt is worn or cracked, replace the belt.
5. Replace the drive motor, if tightening or replacing the drive belt doesn't fix the agitator. Purchase a new drive motor at a wholesale retailer. Disconnect wiring; remove screws holding motor in place and insert new motor. Screw into place, and connect wiring.
6. Check for any black substance leaking under the washing machine. This might indicate a clutch problem, if the washing machine spinner is not working. Contact a professional repairman to replace the clutch.
as per experaince u having clutch..its not dat easy..please contact professional.. n get the right product.. please check.. http://www.affordableappliance.com hope it ws helpful to u.. hope this old guy deserve a drink. >> cheers!!
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
There are three common causes why the drum does not spin. You must check the motor coupler, the water level switch and the lid switch. In your case you better check up first the motor coupler because you replaced the transmission. Before checking the motor coupler, unplug the washer or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, turn off the water supply to the washer at the valves. Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do. Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler. Secondly the water level switch (aka pressure switch) senses the water level in the wash tub. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air press. A defective pressure switch can interfere with the cycles that depend upon the switch to indicate when water has filled or emptied from the tub. It can also result in under refilling or overfilling of the tub.The switch routes current from the timer control to the temperature switch and the water inlet valve when the tub needs to be filled. Once full, the pressure switch cuts the current and reroutes it to the motor on the timer control to continue the cycle.Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch. The water level switch has three connectors. Label and disconnect the wires from the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. It will be necessary to test each of the three possible pairs. For example in the image below, test pairs 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3. Place a probe on two terminals and note the reading. Now move one of the probes to the other terminal and note the reading. Finally test the third pair and note the reading. The multitester should display a reading of infinity or continuity for each test. In this test two of the pairs should read infinity and one should read near zero resistance (continuity). Now blow gently into the air pressure connection and retest. It should click and you must maintain the air pressure while testing. For the two pairs that read infinity one should now show good continuity. The pair that previously gave of reading of continuity should now give a reading of infinity.If the switch fails either of these tests, it should be replaced.
Lastly the lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switchTest the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multitester. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating
Good luck hopes it may helps.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow
the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the
problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a
qualified appliance repair technician.
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
There is no clutch on a washing machine.There is a belt that connects from the electric motor to the drum.If that is ok then the next thing to check is something which looks like a d size battery and it's like a capacitor that boost electric motor to start, check the wiring first and if possible cross check it with a new one as this is a very common fault.Try the parts on ebay as it's cheaper than anywhere else.If this does not solve this problem then it's the control unit which I would check.Get a meter and test the electric motor as well and also look for any wires hanging out which might come off due to vibration..on both the motor and the capacity..If everything is ok then it's defnitely the control unit which can be either manual or electronic depending on the year of manufacture.This part will be quite costly but try ebay again..might be very cheap there.Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 02, 2018 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Apr 09, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Aug 23, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Jan 16, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Nov 15, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer
Oct 05, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer
Jul 01, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
Feb 01, 2009 | Kenmore 24932 Top Load Washer
May 30, 2008 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Jul 19, 2018 | Bosch Washing Machines
293 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!