Question about Bosch KSU49630 Top Freezer Refrigerator
Temperature not going below -6 to -8. THis started about 2 wks ago after 10 yrs of excellent service. Super and Alarm lights are both on. Cannot find an easily accessable drain hole. Would it de-ice by emptying of food, switching off and leaving to stand with door open for about a week? If that doesn't fix it we would call in an engineer. Question is - is this worth doing?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bosch classixx refridgerator
the evaporator is probably iced up and hence poor air flow. (i am assuming it is a frost-free type). switch off and leave for 24 hours with door open is the easy cure. otherwise, remove the back inside panel of the freezer and melt off the excess ice with a hairdryer used carefully
Posted on Jun 03, 2007
You have found where the problem is and now you must find what the problem is. The freezer is not defrosting tells you the problem is there. Defrost of the freezer coil is started by a timer, the time energizes the heaters, when termination temperature is reached the defrost thermostat opens, the timer continues until the time expires (18-22 minutes). First locate the timer, rotate the clutch head screw SLOWLY clockwise until on e click is heard. The heaters should come on a defrost take place. If timer restarts the system after the time period check the heaters for continuity. If no reading on an Ohm meter replace the heaters. If you find the heater O.K. by a continuity reading, check the defrost thermostat.
Posted on Jun 18, 2008
You can find most user manauls at, www.managemyhome.com, on the right side of the page. You will need the model number off the product information label affixed to the unit.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
Your refrigerator's cool is provided by your freezer section through a damper - there should not be excessive frost on the cooling coils - the most common problem is a defrost timer - are you absolutely sure the noise you hear is the defrost this is the first thing to check, defrost control and its components, is it properly shutting off or stuck on during operation - the next thing to check is for possible sealed system problems / small leaks, door gasket seals, etc.
The fact that it started to work once you manually defrosted is the key here - an over forsted evap will cause the problems you describe most commonly - so have your defrost system checked completly and properly - that should solve the problem. followed by checking door gaskets, damper and sealed system - if only part of the coils are frosted as opposed to the entire surface, that usually a clue to sealed system leak - yes 10C is quite warm for a refrigerator. It should be between 34F-40F, optimal is 34F. And freezer section no warmer than 10F, optimal at 0F (-18C)
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
I have the same refrigerator and found the manual;
"The refrigerator compartment was programmed to defrost automatically meaning you do not have to constantly clean and dry it. Copy from the manual"
Also have a look in the back for the drain outlet - very small. If that is clogged up it also cause water on the inside.
Posted on Jul 19, 2010
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