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EPA regulations: Freon 22 units are no longer available, Units that are compatible are available They come pre charged with nitrogen It must be dumped. If there is freon in the old system it should be pumped down into the condenser unit before the inside unit is removed, Close the high side king valve and run the unit until the low pressure reads near O Close the low pressure king valve. and turn unit off. 410A freon units are readily available. Most if not all 2 ton air handlers will work with any outside 2 ton unit though some building codes will not allow a mix. Their reason: if something fails who is to blame:
If it is still operational, I would leave it alone. The tools you would need would be an ocy/act welding pack, a vacuum pump, pipe cutters, and if the unit is R-22, you will need to close the king valve on the condensing unit high sidle (little pipe), and push the contactor in to remove all the refigerant in the line to store it in the condensing unit. To know if it is evacuated, you'll need a set of refrigerant guages. Depending on how much you want to spend, it would be cheaper to have someone come out and do it. The parts I have listed can run you upwards of $500. Plus, you'll need to know what your doing so you don't damage your compressor after changing your coil. You'll also need to replace the dryer once you open up the sealed system.
The service valves are closed. Therfore once you solder to the stubs on the valves your gauges will read what is in the line set and evaporator coil. Pressure test to 150 and let sit. If determined your pressures held then evacuate with vacuum pump. You are evacuating the line set and evap coil only because your service valves are closed. THIS IS THE PROPER WAY TO DO THIS. Once evacuated to 500 microns, close manifold and open valves. You will then see your refrigerant charge and determine if more refrigerant is needed. Good Luck !!
Hello, you can pump the refrigerant down into the condenser if service valves are equipped with the unit. Hook up gauges to the unit and close the liquid line service valve, then push in the contactor in with a insulated screwdiver or pencil and watch the low side gauge untill in drops to zero, once it drops to zero close the suction line service valve and the refrigerant will be stored in the condenser. Just make sure the unit has service valves, if it does not then the whole charge must be recovered.
Hello, if this is a split system AC then you can pump down the refrigerant into the condenser. You would need a set of gauges to do this. It would involve checking the pressures and closing off the liquid line and suction line, this will keep the refrigerant in the condenser and allow you to disconnect the line set.
If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover. Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same. Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!
Only if they are still available in your area. Goodman still has a few R-22 units left in Texas the last I heard and that is only if your local supply stores can order them. They are getting to be far and few between since they have stopped making the equipment. You might also get a second opinion, a lot of companies are just trying to benefit more by replacing everything, but you could still have a R-22/410A compatible indoor coil and copper line set, they just have to use a flush kit to get all the old refrigerant out of the system. 410A is easily contaminated and runs at a lot higher pressures, that is why they want you to replace everything, but there is still hope. It will save you a little money just having the system flushed and replaced with 410A condenser, but only if compatible. Hope this helps and good luck!
close liquid line small pipe you need gages to do it properly but run the unit on cooling untill you hear the commpressor struggling generaly couple of min depending on pipe length and type of unit cycles then close gas valve bigger pipe switch off power and it shoul be pumped back into outdoor condensing unit
Hi, It is a 25,000 dollar find to bleed off the freon. This is why we have recovery machines. You can pump it down and save the freon that is in the whole system. Go to the outdoor unit. Leave the power on. The small copper line where it comes out of the unit will have a valve on it. It may have a cap screwed over its top. you will see an allen head screw on it. This may take a little time but is well worth it. Screw it down closed, CW. tight. Start the ac and let it run.Since you have no gauges to watch it pull the freon from inside the house to store it all in the outdoor unit, the condenser will shut down when it is done. Once the valve is off and you turn on the stat to run, it won't take very long for the freon to pump in the outdoor unit. We call this pumping the unit down. When done, close down the valve on the large copper line the same way before you shut off stat. Now, you save youself some $ as the freon can be used again. It is perfectly good. The tech will need to cut the lines and relocate them where ever you move this unit and resolder them with silver solder15%. New control wire and move electrical. I hope this has helped you. This is the way it is done. Keep me posted. Merry Christmas, Shastalaker7