Question about Kenmore 57029 Side by Side Refrigerator

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I have a kenmore side by side and the electrical connection (box ) hooked to the compressor is burnt up. How do I tell if comp. is bad? Refride 5 yrs mold

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  • dgpark Jun 27, 2009

    model # 106.54512300



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Hi, If this unit is under 5 years, I would check on the warranty. These models have an issue with the relay burning out. Most likely it is the relay/overload switch. You can replace the switch and see if the compressor starts. If you call a repairman, he can test the compressor.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.


Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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I will help you test your compressor. I also will need the model number that Sears uses to identify their models. 213.256489 for example. Sea Breeze
I have a kenmore side by side and the electrical - 5289d0d.gif

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Jun 27, 2009

    Just as MAYTAG317 mentioned. The start relay and capacitor have issues with burning out. You can replace the parts. and give it a try. But if there is a problem with the compressor the problem will happen again. Testing the compressor for burnout. You will need to unplug and remember each connection you remove and be sure that they are replaced exactly as they were before testing. Behind the cover and with the start relay removed you need to check continuity or ohms between all three prongs two at a time. They are marked C=common R= run and S= start touch the probes to c&r then r&s & s&r again taking down the readings and any reading without a number or blank reading means open . After this touch one probe to each prong and the other to the copper pipeing ouside the compressor. any reading here indicates burnout. Hope this helps, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Jun 27, 2009

    I will have a YouTube short movie soon showing how to test compressors. Stay informed , I let you know, Sea Breeze


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If you have a hermetic checker you can if not its just a chance replace over load if it good it will start

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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The Main reasons that this will happen
1 - A bad run capacitor (silver or metal capacitor)
It’s either shorted, grounded or open.
If it’s shorted a lot of times it will bulge out, (sometimes slightly)
2 - A bad start kit ( plastic capacitor and Relay connected to it )
The capacitor is either shorted or open
The relay either has an open coil between terminals #1 and #5
Or the relay is stuck.
Any time you change the capacitor or relay you should change
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3 - A loose, burnt or disconnected wire
4 - Wired wrong
5 Compressor is open (windings burnt open)
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7 Some compressors have a black plastic overload under the compressor cap which could be bad.

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No, white to com, black to the run terminal, and to the start through the capacitor. I suggest you also have a 15-amp fuse or breaker in the line for protection. Given that you say the relay, cutout, and cap check out, and you say there is continuity through the compressor, I have to think that there is a high-resistance connection in the circuit that feeds the compressor. Suspect bad connection at the thermostat or the defrost timer. Be careful, and work with one hand behind you back so you do not receive a dangerous shock.

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It will rattle slightly, this is normal. The ones that are burned out will sound like they have gravel in them, you can defininely tell something is wrong.
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You should not hear the buzz/hum at startup. You will need to replace the compressor, which will be replaced at no charge to you if it is less than 5 yrs old.
If it is older than 5 yrs, you can have it replaced, but it will be almost as expensive as a new fridge. You can buy an aftermarket start device called a 3-in-1. This has a start capacitor built in to give it a little more boost on start up. I don't recommend using them unless it is a short term fix until the compressor can be replaced or if it is out of warranty and there is nothing to lose anyway.

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