Fridge warm had frosted evap. short LINE & DEFR. on main board (adaptive and control in one). No defrost initiated. tech manual says replace board. check out evap. thermist ohm out in speck temp chart.
Return w/part four days later. Know compressor running defrost heater on at same time?
Replace board Run 48 hrs OK 72 hrs later fridge warm, freezer cold and making ice???
Air damp. suspect but @ a loss if not the problem. Tech manual didn't quite make the translatin from english to english.
Have you had the same problem? Wow I am beginning to miss the regular mechanical defrost timers and bi-metal therms
Thanks in advance Chuck
These fridges were made by LG they are very problematic, the defrost cysle does not work properly due to board defects and the fridge freezes up, I have replaced my board twice and the fridge has worked properly for 6 months max them the board shorts again, I talked with the LG rep he said scrap the fridge they are ****.
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Bonjour..Your system check (hot cold) is correct. Generally all new refrig/freezers cool only the freezer & bleed cold air off to cool the refrigerator. Most diverter/airflow dampers I have seen are mechanically operated for simplicity & to keep costs down. I would unload freezer and pull the panel off where you see the fan mounted. Go slow, don't drop any screws.You may not get them back. Look at the drain pan under the evap. coil. If it has ice that is built up in layers. Suspect the defrost termination thermostat. If the evap coil is clogged with heavy frost, suspect 1 the defrost timer and 2 the defrost heaters mounted on the evap. coil. Let me know how you make out.
Is there any frost buildup on the rear panel inside the freezer? If so you have a defrost problem of a bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer/ control board. If no frost then you probably have a clogged defrost drain. Remove the rear panel to access drain hole.
if frost is on the back wall you have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater or depending on your model a bad timer or board.also when you open the freezer door you should hear the evap. fan blowing around,this is what blows the cold air from the freezer to the fridge section.a common problem with bottom mount refrigerators is the door doesn't close all the way,warm air gets into it and then the air ducts freeze up and the fridge is warm.if this was the problem you would have ice on the ceiling,frozen water droplets on the packages and maybe ice on the top of the door where the air was getting in but if it's on the back wall it's a defrost problem.you have to remove everything out of the freezer,remove the door and basket,then remove the back inside wall of the freezer,either put the machine into defrost,if it has a timer advance it or if it has a board you can pull off the bottom kickplate and there should be a tech sheet,it will tell you how to put the machine into defrost,if the heater doesn't come on you'll need a meter to see what part is bad,also you need to melt all the ice off of the evap coil and check the parts.if you send the model number i can look up your machine and see what parts are in it and i can help you out better
Open the freezer and look for frost buildup on the back panel. If you see frost, you have a defrost problem. Possible causes are the defrost heater or evaporator thermistor. You will need a multimeter to test the components. The heater should show continuity. The thermistor should be between 10k and 80k? at fridge to freezer temperatures. Anything less than that, the thermistor is bad. Remove the back panel of the freezer to access. The heater is mounted to the bottom of the evaporator coils. The evaporator thermistor is mounted to the top of the evaporator.
If no frost, I would suspect the freezer thermistor. It's at the left lower rear of the freezer or behind a grill on the right wall of the freezer. Same thing, if it reads less than 10k? replace it.
If all the components check good, the only thing left is the main control board. You can find this behind a panel on the back of the fridge.
Part numbers: Defrost heater WR51X10055, thermistor WR55X10025, Control board WR55X10942.
The newest defrost feature in modern fridges
is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. To
put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small
screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds
and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off
and go through a defrost cycle
Which temp sensor did you replace? The one that clips to the top of the cooling coils is the defrost sensing thermistor. The other "temp limit sensor" is thermal cutoff switch that opens the defrost circuit should it get to warm. Be sure you got the right part for this! There are a couple of different temperature rated cutoff thermostats out there and this model uses a pretty high temp rating. As to your question of manually putting it into defrost, you would need to unplug the refrigerator and disconnect the power ******** of the control board (the only jack that mounts parallel to the board and should be a green colored three wire connector. The terminals on the board should be labeled "comp", "line or L" and "def". You will need to put a jumper wire between the line and def wires on the wire connector (not on the board). Plug the fridge back in and your defrost circuit should be energized. Good luck with this!
if freezer is close to zero, top to bottom, and fridge is warm(ing), then you likely have a defrost problem, you will notice an abundance of snow/frost on back wall of freezer. it could either be your heater, thermistor, defrost safety thermostat, or your defrost control/main cpu, depending on model. if either or both sides are warm at the top, and cold at bottom, then your freezer fan is out. again depending on your model, it may just be the fan, or a combination fan/main cpu board hope this helps
This model does not have a defrost timer. It has a motherboard. You must jump out the plug to the main board to test the defrost circuit. In order to do this take the cover off of the main board, find the three wire connector on the base of the main board, connecter is normally blue in color. On the board itself it will identify termials as line, defrost, and compressor. To test you must create a jumper wire.Install the jumper in the plug terminals identified as line and defrost.This will turn the defrost heater on. If the heater does not come on, look for a defective heater or a defrost thermostat(mounted on the top of the evaporator). If the heater does come on replace the thermister(located on top of evap, white in color and has two white wires part#WR55x10025)