Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Rubber door seal rip...

I found a rip in the door seal on my washer. Has anyone else had this problem?? I am just wondering how deep of a hole this will burn in my pocket...thanks!

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  • 3 more comments 
  • apoepping Nov 06, 2007

    I also wanted to add that I CAN do little loads of laundry without it leaking...its just when I do a larger load that it leaks from the rip..

  • apoepping Nov 07, 2007

    I think we are going to order the part and try to fix this step by step instructions would be fabulous!! Thanks!

  • apoepping Nov 09, 2007

    We fixed it!! It really wasnt too hard, just labor intensive like you said. Thanks again for the instructions, it sure helped!!! Im calling the place where I bought the washer to let them know they shouldnt tell people to stuff the washer full of clothes..the washer obviously cant handle too much weight...Thanks again

    Angie and Tim

  • apoepping Mar 07, 2008

    Sorry I didnt even realize a rating was left, but if i left that i didnt mean to!! Your instructions were great, washer is still working!! Thanks again;0

  • Lizzih Mar 09, 2008

    I have the exact same leaks horrible when it's filled with a medium or large load.

    Somehow we are going to have to replace this ourself since I'm sure labor is going to be expensive.



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The rubber door boot (bellow) commonly wears out on these front loaders. A replacement will run you about $80 just for the bellow. Labor could run as high as $180 if you decide to hire someone to replace it for you. If you wish to perform the repairs yourself, post back with your intentions and I can provide you with step-by-step instructions on how to replace it. It is labor intensive as you will have to remove the entire washer front in order to do the job right. It IS possible, however, if you wish to pursue a repair option on your own. Just let me know.

PS I can also provide you with the part number if you reply with your washer model number (found along the door opening).

Posted on Nov 06, 2007

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 07, 2007 ya go:

    1. Unplug the washer.

    2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, then lift off.

    3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.

    4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.

    5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.

    6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.

    7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.

    8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.

    9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will dettach from the tub.

    10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.

    11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.

    12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Then, beginning at the top start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be adviseable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.

    13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.

    14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

    I hope you find these instructions helpful. Let me know if you have any further/questions and concerns. Good Luck to you.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 07, 2007

    Do you still need a part number? If so, give me your washer model number (located inside the door opening) and I can find it for you.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Mar 06, 2008

    If it fixed the problem why the "Thanks for Trying" rating?

  • dhentschel
    dhentschel Dec 27, 2012

    Our Kenmore Washer #41744102301 has a tear in the lip on the very front of the boot. It does not go all the way through but allows water to leak between the door & the front of the washer. Can this small tear be retaired some way?



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1 Answer

The inside rubber ring has 2 rips in it! how could that happen and can it be replaced? Also can i still do a load of wash with the rip in it?

If you're referring to the gray rubber door seal (bellow), it can be purchased and replaced. They do wear out from normal wear and tear and may require replacement from time to time. Overloading the washer is a major contributer in causing the seal to prematurely wear and cause it to fail. The following link gives you step-by-step instructions on how to replace a door bellow:

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

The first three sites listed also inlcude helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. Prices will vary, so shop and compare.

NOTE: As a TEMPORARY fix (if you need to use the washer while awaiting parts and the holes are not too severe) you can use a good water proof tape, or inner tube repair patches to place over any existing holes.

If you require additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you

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1 Answer

Door seal leaks

Most commonly, the source of the leak comes from the door bellow (gray rubber seal). They do wear out with age and can develop small rips and tears. A routine inspection of the perimeter of the door seal can determine if you have any holes. If the seal is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

If no obvious rips or tears are found, it is also common for the bellow to stretch over time and no longer provide a good seal around the door glass. Make sure you check to see if the bellow is sealing properly all the way around the perimeter of the door.

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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1 Answer

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most likely you have a hole in the boot seal,the rubber piece in between the door and the tub,also open the door and wipe the bottom part of the door on the plastic window,i've found pieces of hair there and the water travels down the hair and leaks through the door.if that's clean you have a hole in the boot seal,open the door,spread the rubber boot open and with you fingers feel all around the rubber boot

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