Do you need to have some type of allignment tool

There is a special tool but you don't need it. You only need a simple knife or something with a flat point. I will a flat steak knife myself if nothing else. Under that window crank there is a c clip holding it. It's slides easy if you don't pull on the window crank. You can use a screwdriver and spread the plastic disk between that and the handle and look for the ends of the c clip. Once you see which way it slides. Slide the back of the steak knife and or a screwdriver will work also. And get the clip out. It has some spring tension on it so when it comes lose it's going to go so don't lose it. The autopart stores sell the clips because people do lose them

Hello hjolana: My name is Roger and i will help you. I have attached a picture of the timing marks.The camshaft mark aligns with the mark at top of cover behind the cam gear. The lower mark aligns with the notch on the block and the crankshaft key way is at 12:00 o'clock. See the picture. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

cam top +backing plate
crank top+backing plate

it's not customary for the timing marks to be in the groove surfaces of a pulley. remove # 1 spark-plug. Remove fuel pump fuse to not allow engine to start. Plug spark plug hole with a rag and crank engine until compression blows out the rag. Now look for the TDC mark on crank pulley and hole on cam to be on top and aligned with mark on cam bearing cap

You need to get a manual. Try the Haynes manual for your car. Try autozone; generally available for around $20. This is not the type of thing that can be covered here in enought detail to do you any good.
Basics are;
disconect the negative battery cable, set parking brake
locate the trans mounting bolts
get something to support the engine and something to support the trans
seperate the trans from the motor by removing the bolts. On transverse mounted engines you will probably have to pull the trans to get enough room to remove the clutch and you'll probably have to remove the 1/2 shaft axles (front wheel cars) or drive shaft (rear wheel drive cars)
If replacing the entire clutc assembly (pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch), loosen the pressure plate mounting bolts gradually working your way around the pressure plate. If only replacing the clutch then seperate the sperate the pressure plate from the flywheel and remobe. Align clutch with a clutch allignment tools and replace pressure plate. Torque bolts to spec. reconnect the trans to the motor. Few other things to think about. You should replace the throwout bearng when doing a clutch. Lube the clutch fork as directed without getting lub on the clutch face. Hopefully I have convinced yu to get a manual or you will be hating life if you take this on without it.

U may have to remove the bell-housing and loosen the pressure plate and and install your alignment tool.Hold pressure against the alignment tool while you tighten the pressure plate to ensure that the clutch plate does not move.Apply a small amount of grease to the end of the input shaft,put the gear box in neutral to allow the shaft to move.Be patient it may take some time to get it in.

take the drive shafts out, Unbolt the transmission, pull transmission off of engine,Unbolt clutch and preasure plate install new one dont foget to use the alignment tool that comes with the new clutch . if you dont use it the transmission wont line up. just put every thing back to gether the way it came offf

camshaft timing mark at 12 o"clock, align cam shaft timing mark to ( v ) cut on top of back timing cover, crank shaft gear align 12 o'clock key way up, there will be a mark on the outer edge of gear, on housing at 12 o'clock there will be the timing mark align that mark to crank gear , install belt and your done.Good luck.

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

I am sorry, but if you are asking this question, perhaps the task is better left to a shop.

This is a complicated task, fraught with numerous issues, like clutch plate alignment, and special tools needed to support the engine, and drive shafts that need to come out.....

I also reccomend resurfacing the flywheel, and replace ALL seals in the area, engine and trans, replace pilot bearing and release bearing....