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Most PTO shafts are a square shaft inside of a square tube to allow for it to go in and out of itself as the mower goes up and down across the ground. You should be able to unhook from the tractor and the gearbox to remove it. In the USA we have farm stores that we go to for the U Joints and halfshafts and connectors to repair them. Some of the parts are also used on trucks so Truck Repair places also. Any parts house can get you a u joint if you bring them the old one to measure.There is also round shaft models but there has to be a slip joint in all of them so no to removing the gearbox off of the mower deck.
Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install: Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
The part you are describing is called a ball stud weld yoke and it has to be machined off the tubing and replaced. A qualified drive line shop should be able to help you with this.
If you have any questions give me a call 619-275-0150
THE FORD SUSPENSION AND FRONT END IS LIQUID FILLED JOINTS THEY MAY BE DRIED UP OR LOW YOU CAN FIX THE PROBLEM BY REPLACING THE LIQUID FILLED JOINTS WITH URATHANE RUBBER JOINTS CHECK OUT PEDDERS SUSPENSION I READ THIS IN FORD PERFORMANCE MAGAZINE CHEERS HARRY 0413-728-875
1 . Raise and support the truck. Remove the rear wheels, the brake drum or brake caliper and
rotor. If this is a disc brake, support caliper with wire. Remove seal retainer nuts from axle
housing.
2 . Pull out the axle shaft
from housing. Remove the snap ring and bearing race from the axle shaft.
Cut the bearing retainer. Break the bearing cage using a hammer and
chisel and remove cage and rollers.
3 . Remove the oil seal, the seal retainer and the parking brake assembly (rear).
Using a hydraulic press and bearing splitter, press the inner race from
axle shaft. Inspect axle shaft for seal wear.
Ensure that the shaft is not bent.
The CV joint has nothing to do with the brakes you probably put something back wrong because you had to remove the Caliper and Brake pads. The CV joint you probably never replaced the C clip which keeps the shaft spline from going out into the hub. The CV joint also has to be synchronized. Which means they have to line up on both sides. Most will mark the shaft first, before removing.
Yes you can, If you have taken the front drive shaft off, you can even still drive with the CV joint in place till you want to remove it. You may get some vibration around corners till you replace the CV joint or remove it totally.
But if your going to remove it, might as well wait till you have the replacement so you only do the job once. I had a Bad CV joint on a AWD Chevy van and did the same thing so i could still use it, and then replaced the CV joint when the weather got better.
Good luck and hope this helps.
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