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What is the flywheel spacing for each pole of the ignition module (magnito) on a Husqvarna string trimmer 125L 2005-2009 ??

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  • mapstone28 Jun 27, 2009

    PLEASE READ THE QUESTION !! The posted answer is IRRELEVANT !!

  • mapstone28 Jun 29, 2009

    On this particular magnito the two poles are different and appear to require different settings,ie,.015 and ,125. I need the factory specs. Thanks,PGS

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Try .08 it shold do the trick

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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The thickness of a matchbook cover it fine

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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  • ___ ___
    |___| |___|<-------- Self tapping bolts or pretap holes.
    | | | |
    _|-|_ _|-|_
    | |-| | | |-| |<------- Tighten nuts to release flywheel.
    ___|_|-|_|__________|_|-|_|___
    | |-| |-| |<--- Plate or block - 1/4" or thicker steel
    |_____|-|______________|-|_____|
    |-| .-.----.-. |-|
    |-| | :----: |<-|-|---------- Flywheel nut - loosen slightly.
    |-| |_:----:_| |-|
    ______|-|___ :----: ___|-|______
    //////:-:///|:----:|///:-://////
    //////:-:///|:----:|///:-:////// <-- Flywheel comes with predrilled holes.
    //////'-'///|:----:|///'-'////// (taper not shown - ASCII limitations!)
    //////| |///|:----:|///| |//////
    Bolts are screwed into holes in flywheel. Then, plate bears against the flywheel nut (slightly loosened) and the nuts are tightened alternately until the flywheel pops off.
    WARNING: do not use an ordinary gear, clutch, pulley, bearing, or other puller unless this is specifically mentioned as a recommended technique in your engine manual. The flywheel could be damaged - possibly not immediately obvious - but the result could be catastrophic failure once the engine is put back into service.

  • A 'knock-off tool' is a special closed-end nut that you thread onto the crankshaft in place of the normal flywheel nut. You then are supposed to pry under the flywheel with a pair of large screwdrivers while tapping the knock-off tool with a soft hammer. Aside from the fact that as described, this requires 3 hands, this may or may not work easily. Depending on conditions, the flywheel may pop off at the first tap or may stubbornly refuse to budge no matter how much you whack. If not done properly, it is possible to bend the crankshaft - very expensive. Some people also worry that the shock will damage internal parts or even partially demagnetize the magnet on the flywheel. Thus, my preference for the puller unless the first couple of taps releases the flywheel.
  • Many engine books will simply recommend threading the flywheel nut back on flush with the end of the shaft and tapping this with a hammer as above (with the 3 hands). The risk here is that the threads may be damaged in addition to the possibility of bending the shaft or causing other damage. Use a piece of soft metal - aluminum, brass, or lead - to protect the end of the shaft and nut. In any case, only use this approach as a last resort.
Flywheel removal on Briggs & Stratton engines The following applies to most B&S engines with the square starter shaft. This procedure will be needed to gain access to the points and condenser (on engines without electronic ignition), oil seal, etc. (From: Foxeye (foxeye@www.compumise.com).)
The square shaft which turns one direction but not the other is the recoil starter pawl. This can be pulled straight up from the round cup that it sits in. There should be a couple of steel balls inside. Some models have a large internal snap ring that holds this in the cup. Remove ring, and pull it straight up. Use a magnet to remove the steel balls. Once you have this starter pawl removed, and the steel balls, hold the flywheel, stationary, and using a block of wood, bump one of the lugs on the outside of the starter cup in a CCW direction.
Once you break it free of its torque, it should be able to be spun off CCW. Remove this starter cup, and the beveled bellville washer under it. Now your ready for your flywheel puller. A strap wrench can also be used to turn this starter cup loose. When installing the starter cup, make sure it is clean and free of grease and oils. A drop of oil or a light coating of grease on the crankshafts stub end (over which the starter pawl goes) is usually recommended. The starter cup only needs to be snugged down, and you don't have to go overboard trying to torque it to ungodly tightness. Snug is sufficient.
Drop in the starter pawl, into the cup over the stub of the crank, and drop in the steel balls, replace larger flat cover over this assy, and insert snap ring if there was one.
Flywheel inspection Once the flywheel is off, inspect the keyway on the crankshaft and flywheel for damage. Serious damage will require replacement of the affected parts. Slight burrs can be removed with a small file. If there are any cracks in the flywheel radiating from the hole, the flywheel MUST be replaced as this is a serious safety risk - the flywheel could literally explode when run at full speed. However, don't be concerned by surface flash - lines that look like fine cracks resulting from the molding process. To confirm that these are not cracks, there will be no visible penetration inside the shaft hole and fine sanding will quickly remove all traces of this flash. Assuming there is no serious damage, a new flywheel key should be all you need - about 25 or 30 cents. To confirm that this is all you need, replace the flywheel without the key but line up the two slots as they would be if a key were present. Tighten securely (but it doesn't need to be to the full torque as this is just a test). This should permit the mower to start and run normally but I would not recommend using the mower to actually cut grass until you replace the flywheel key.
To install the new one, insert the key into the slot in the flywheel first and then slip the entire affair onto the crankshaft (I like to use a bit of WD40 for protection as well). The flywheel should seat securely with no detectable free play - it should be on straight and not rock back and forth at all. If this is not the case, the key may be in upside-down or there may be something or some particles of dirt or metal blocking it. Replace the washers, dirt screen, etc., and then hand thread the flywheel nut as far as it will go. Tighten to the specified torque (typically, 30-33 ft-lbs).
Note: There may be a cupped washer between the nut/screen and flywheel. This must be installed cupped-side facing the flywheel or else you will be probably be replacing the flywheel key again very soon :-(.
WARNING: Do not install a hard steel key in place of the recommended flywheel key as you will lose the protection that the soft metal provides and the next incident may be the last... See the section: Why soft metal keys must be used.
Then, replace the shroud, fuel tank, etc. If head bolts had to be removed, it is probably a good idea to slightly loosen all of the head bolts and then retorque them to the proper value in the recommended sequence for your engine.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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