Question about KitchenAid Dryers
I have a kitchenaid dryer model # KGYS750JQ2 that won't heat. all vents are clear.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat.
THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS YOUR POWER. THE OUTLET HAS TWO ANGLED HOLES THAT SHOULD TOTAL 240VOLTS ACROSS THEM. THE L SHAPED HOLE IS THE GROUND AND THERE SHOULD BE 120VOLTS FROM EACH ANGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE. THE DRYER'S MOTOR ONLY RUNS ON 120 VOLTS ( FROM ONE ANLGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE). THE HEATING ELEMENT CIRCUIT RUNS FROM ONE ANGLED HOLE TO THE OTHER(240VOLTS)
THE DRYER WILL RUN BUT NOT HEAT WITH ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED.
IF POWER IS O.K., THE NEXT THING TO DO IS PULL THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER. THE HEAT ELEMENT IS IN A BOX ON THE RIGHT SIDE WITH TWO RED WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. IF YOU HAVE A METER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HEATER. IF YOU HAVE
240VOLTS THERE, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, THE ROUND ITEM NEAR THE BOTTOM IS A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT. IF YOU HAVE 240VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS ON THE THERMOSTAT, IT IS BAD. PART #
279769 COMES WITH THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL FUSE FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE THE SAME WAY.
IF IT IS BAD, YOU WILL SEE 240VOLTS ACROSS IT.
IF ALL THOSE COMPONENTS ARE GOOD, IT COULD BE THE TIMER, TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH, OR THE MOTOR'S CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH. YOU WOULD HAVE TO READ THE WIRING DIAGRAM INSIDE THE CONTROL PANEL TO CHECK THOSE ITEMS.
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
Check your heating element and also the high pressure switch which is located on the metal part behind the panel on the back of the unit where the vent hose connects sounds like your unit is over heating
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
One of two possiblities:
1. Dryer vent is blocked - check the air coming through the outside vent
2. Blower Fan is clogged - remove the lower front panel and clean out the fan wheel
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the part numbers are as follows:
Heating Element - 279838
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - 279816
All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
All your heating circuits are accessible by removing the lower toe panel dire the rear of the dryer by removing the back panel. Just remove the screws around the perimeter of the back panel and the heating circuits will be located on the right-hand side. Refer to the exploded view diagrams at the websites I mentioned for reference. The heating circuitry is located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
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