GFCI keeps tripping when I turn on the pump

Replace GFCI and see if the breaker is bad.
Otherwise, my guess is that you have a short in the pool or pool heating element.
If you have AFCI (arc fault), then a loose wire connection anywhere along the line will trip breaker
Troubleshoot resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#spa

Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

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Try running the motor in the dark. You may find it arcs to the chassis of the motor and that is your culprit. Had same thing on a hot tub 10 years ago. The professional techs tried everything for me. i finished the last part at 10pm and turned the motor on and saw the arc then trip the gfci. Good luck

This is happening when you first activate the GFCI then either the circuit board is installed incorrectly or it is bad.

US Parts Center

Is this a spring-wound timer?
You rotate the timer knob, and it begins ticking?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Woods-spring-wound-277.jpg

This type mechanical timer will work with any voltage.
What voltage line do you have?
240Volt has 2 hot wires. Connect 1 hot wire to timer. Timer turns off 1 hot wires, and that action will turn off 240V circuit.
120V has 1 hot wire. Connect this hot wire to timer, and it will turn off 120V circuit.

Be sure you have GFCI breaker or Arc fault breaker on spa circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Arc-Fault-breaker.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#2-pole-gfci
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Leaking heat element.
2 GFCI on same circuit.
Rat-chewed wire. Inspect wiring.
Nail through wire.
Melted wire nut in junction box.
Undersized wire and breaker has been overheating breaker, and breaker has gone bad.
Shorted breaker. Move wires to different same-size breaker.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#2-pole-gfci
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

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It sounds like a bad neutral wire. Somewhere the neutral is not properly connected. Most residential wiring operates on a 240 single phase system comprised of two seperate 120 volt legs. Connect between either leg to the neutral gives you 120 volts.connect btween the two legs gives you 240 volts. If the neutral is not present the circuit will search out the other leg to try to complete the circuit causing dimming of lights extremely bright lights and all around chaos. Check ahead of the main to see that the voltage is correct. Check each leg to neutral with a voltage tester. Have some one turn some lights on and off while checking as sometimes a load is required to get fluctuating readings. If the reading fluctuate wildly the problem is between the power grid and the panel. If not recheck on a a couple of breakers and if the readings fluctuate it is on your side of the system.
. Hope this helps
. Bob

Water sprayed on the pump occasionally shouldn't hurt it but it might cause a ground fault circuit interupter (GFCI) to trip. If you turn on the pump and literally nothing happens then most likely the the GFCI has tripped. If it hums then this is a different issue. If you have a volt meter you can open the timer box and check whether power is available to the timer. If no power is available in the timer then it confirms that the pump is probably ok. Checking your circuit breaker panel for a tripped breaker or finding a tripped GFCI then either one can be reset and your pump will probably run without a problem.

I hope this helps.

In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets.
If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems:
(1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal).
check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct.
The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds power
to the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstream
side of the circuit).
(2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly - check the reset button(s) just to
make sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage.
Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outlets
are correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VAC
should begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the end
of the circuit until the problem is identified.
What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of the
circuit involved - including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) - and then use that as a
resource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem.
Here's the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram:
How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)?
It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may find
that you're dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker box
for any breakers that are in the "Tripped" position - and diagram those circuit(s) too.
What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that is
supposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit - or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.

Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table saw
on a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, the
total curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breaker
panel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding the
ENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel).
In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds the
shop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.

The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem to
diagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1st
device box - no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls - so long as they
are not live.
What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems so
quickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. "chirper" tester), which would allow you to check
the wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears.
At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you've found your
fault. At Home Depot/Lowe's/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you back
about $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one that
lights and LED and also chirps.

Hi!!

Right beside the circuit panel, there is a grill, remove the 4 screws to gain access to the transformer/battery charger. You'll see a double power outlet, one cord is from fridge, the other is from the transformer. UNPLUG Transformer cord and reset breaker.

It will take a couple of minutes for the fridge to change to AC if you have it in AUTO. If everything works fine, REPAIR OR REPLACE TRANSFORMER/BATTERY CHARGER.

Don't forget to rate this answer, Good Luck!!!

gfci's are designed to trip if they receive voltage on there ground/neutral side, therefore my vote is for Smithbrother I would say there is probably a partial short somewhere in you system.