1 week old pungo 100 and the stern bulkhead is seperating
I have a new 1 week old pungo 100 and the stern bulkhead is installed in 2 parts an outer ring and an inner insert the 2 parts are seperating creating a gap is this a problem with the Pungo 100? and will warranty fix it locally?
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Sounds like it is not getting oil. The bearing oil fill cover can be removed by lifting outer plate with a screwdriver. Ck that the wicks are covered with oil , if not oil them. Put 3 drops in motor oil fill tubes. If still squealing, replace.
You have to undo the tank from the plumbing by undoing the hand nuts at the bulkheads.Then undo the bottom bulkhead so it is loose from the tank bottom. The lower bulkhead and manifold should come out in one piece. Looking at the new manifold you will see where the old manifold needs to be disconnected from the pipe. It may take some doing but the parts just slip together.
Ok the lights flash all continually because the control board is defective (as opposed to another component) the part number for the control board is 8564546 it could be purchased from your local appliance parts store or online at; searspartsdirect.com apdepot.com repairclinic.com apwagner.com partselect.com
To replace the control board,open the door and remove the T10 torx headed screws and seperate the inner/outer door,remove the cover from control board ,remove old board with the wires attached...install new board and install wires on new board the plugs are keyed and will only fit on the correct terminals, a tip is to remove on and install it on new board so you doing only 1 plug at a time and its easy to tell where it goes since its the exact same place it just off of old board.
BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS TURNOFF POWER TO THE DISHWASHER AT THE CURCUIT BREAKER
Brand new boat? Let them replace it, it's a manufacturing defect! The bulkhead probably was slightly too large or the sealant was poorly applied, either way you don't want the headache yourself. Wilderness systems and their dealers tend to be VERY reasonable with this type of problem.
If it were an older boat or one you had used extensively, I would recommend removing the old sealant and then laying down thick beads of a high quality silicone sealant such as Lexel on both sides of the bulkhead.
If it is dry, and you don't need to access it, about the best thing to use to seal it is silicone caulk. I paddle whitewater and that stuff is the bomb. There are some other glues (like the ones they use for foam pads), but they are extremely expensive. Tube of silicone 5 bucks. Also, in a pinch on the water, duct tape it.
you don't need to remove the whole rack but do need a special tool called inner tie rod tool. can be bought or borrowed form most auto parts stores. first remove wheel. next loosen the jam nut on inner tie rod at the end of outer tie rod. remove cotter pin and nut on outer. use seperator or pickle fork to seperate outer from knuckle. then remove the clamps on boot and remove. then take tie rod tool and find the right size end and turn with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. it will turn hard at first cause of it being staked on to the threads. when it is off install new part with loc-tite on threads and tighten. when tight crimp inner flanges with either plier or hammer and punch to the rack. install in reverse order. remember to measure distance from clamp on outer side of boot to jam nut so you can get the alignment close until you get to shop for alignment.
A boat designed for greater touring distances and a higher degree of safety would have a smaller cockpit, hatches and bulkheads. The smaller cockpit allows for contact with your knees for control. The hatches and bulkheads are designed to be, for the most part, air- and watertight. You can store gear (in dry bags) in these as well as have hundreds of pounds of positive buoyancy should your cockpit fill with water.