Question about Tasco Target/Varmint 6-24x42mm Rifle Scope Mil Dot Reticle

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Will my scope remain zeroed at different distances?

Hello,

If I zero my scope on my .17hmr at 50yds and it shoots dead centre will I still aim for the same place at 100yds and 150yds?

Or do I need to aim higher/lower etc?


Thanks,
Alex

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You need to look at your bullet ballistics, Most guns should shoot dead on at say 15 - 17 yards out, to be on center at 100. Line of sight is straight the bullet must go over the line of sight to come back down and cross again so far out -- make sense? So no you will be a little high at 100 but may be close at 130 - 150. Ck on line for your ballistics with the bullet manufacture.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Then set the objective to 100yards or the distance you want to zero to
Shoot a group and adjust turrets and repeat until zeroed

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Sight in distance for 2.510x42m


What is the calibre and velocity and target species as the zero distance could be 50-200 yards depending on what you are shooting
most of my rifles are set to 100yards except for the nitro express
Which is zeroed for 55 yrds and the 17 wildcat which is 200 yards
It all depends on the range you will be shooting most

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Do i have to loosen set screws on turrets to zero scope or do i zero and leave the set screws where they are to shoot at different distances? thx. 6x24x42 varmint with mil dot reticle.


Sight in your scope, Loosen the set screws and zero the dials the re-set the set screws. This will make it easy for you to adjust for distance and wind from the zero setting when in the field shooting. Then you can go back to your zero.

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Just bought this scope and want to use on my rem 243,will it hold a zero once zeroed in?


The ability of a scope to hold it's adjustment is pretty much pre- determined by the quality of the scope itself...Better scopes hold adjustments better than cheap ones. Same goes for the mounts...a good mount will not loosen up or change point of aim.
If you are using a good quality scope and good mounts, once sighted in, unless you drop the weapon or have it shipped as 'baggage" on a long distance hunt, It should stay reasonably zeroed.
A 243 is not known as a "shoulder buster" so recoil should not affect adjustments.
243's are generally used in long range shooting. Therefore changes in temperature and normal use can change point of impact...so can changing the ammo you use. Therefore I don't recommend not checking accuracy before taking any weapon into the field. Wether you are using a $40 scope or a $1000 one, you owe the animal you are shooting, your very best attempt to take it down with one well placed shot. Checking zero at the anticipated shooting distance is the best way to insure that.

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Once zeroed in is the range on the turrets correct at i go longer distances?


This depends entirely on what class of cartridges the scope was built for. Different cartridges will drop more or less at a specified distances based on starting speed and ballistic coefficient. If your scope is built for a .223 and you are shooting a .223, then it will work fine. If you mounted it on a 45-70 however, the bullet will drop much more quickly and your necessary scope adjustments will not match the markings on your scope.

Oct 10, 2010 | Tasco Target/Varmint 6-24x42mm Rifle Scope...

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I just bought this bsa deerhunter with the rear adjustment. I have never sighted in one before. What is the best way to sight in this type of scope and what is the rear adjustment for?


start off shooting at a range of 20yds no more off a bench rest
when you have a zero move back to 50yds you will find it will shoot bepending on the gun highter or lower but in line its just a mater of putting the cross on the target shooting a round and without moving the gun at all, move the cross over the hit from the bullet strike,,,thats it then its zerod

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How to use the BDC on my rifle scope



  1. Step 1 Take a rifle with a properly installed BDC bullet drop compensating reticle to a rifle range. Using ear protection zero the scope reticle so that the point of impact corresponds to the center of the cross hairs at the distance you have selected - typically 100 or 200 yds.
  2. Step 2 Determine the trajectory of the specific cartridge you have selected. There are several ways to do this. Ammo manufacturers publish trajectory and wind drift information. There are web based ballistic calculators like http://www.biggameinfo.com/BalCalc.aspx which will tell you how much your bullet drops at known distances.
  3. Step 3 Scope manufacturers like Leupold can be a valuable source of information about their reticle: "Leupold® Ballistic Aiming System: Boone and Crockett Club® Big Game Reticle aiming system provides a series of additional aiming points to improve your ability to shoot accurately at longer ranges. Nikon2_bing.gif also provides good information suggesting the marks on their reticle be used for zero at 100yds followed by circles below representing 200, 300, 400 and 500 yds if the cartridge travels around 2800 ft per sec. Nikon suggests the center cross hair be zeroed at 200 yds for magnum calibers traveling around 3000 ft per sec. We understant that each variation of different bullet weight and powder charge changes trajectory and a scope manufacturer can not build a different reticle for each different cartridge made so practice on the range to determine how well the marks relate to the actual impact of where your bullet strikes at a know distance is important. The one thing that people using BDC scopes typically have problems with is that a BDC scope has the reticle in the second focal plane of the scope. If the reticle was in the first focal plane of the scope the reticle would look smaller on low powers like 3x and grow proportionately larger as the power increased to say 9x top power. The problem is that while the marks on the BDC reticle correspond accurately to the bullet drop at the know distances 200, 300yds etc. What happens when you lower the power from the scopes maximum power to any other lower power is the reticle stays the same size and the field of view within the scope increases which means that the distance between these marks on the BDC reticle no longer corresponds to the point where the bullet will strike. In short BDC reticles only work at the maximum power of the scope or at a set specific power. At all other powers these BDC reticles do not accurately represent where the bullet will strike.
  4. Step 4 The center X always remains the same. If you zero at 100 yards and you know that your bullet drops 8 inches at 300 yards you could forget about the BDC marks and hold the center X 8 inches high - that works at any power 3x or 9x and should be used at lower powers. If you zero the center crosshair at 100yds and have the BDC scope at the maximum power 9X then the first line or circle below the center X should be the mark you place on the center of the 200 yard target----- the bullet strike should hit the center. If by some chance you put the scope on 3x and placed that first mark below the center cross hair on that 200 yard target you would shoot over the top of the target. This is because as the power of the scope decreases the field of view increases the angle increase and gets wider. You can experiment with known power settings and see at a specific power say 3x what that first circle down corresponds to and make notes because at any set power what the marks correspond to will be repeatable.
I got this from a website, hope it helps.

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I inadvertantly changed my elevation adsjustment.


this is an excellent article on zeroing a scope.

http://www.outdoorpros.com/How-To-Guides/How-To-Zero-A-Rifle-Scope/5

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When you zoom your scope does the impact point change on the target? is that when you use mil dot?


No, the cross hairs remain fixed. The zoom serves only to magnify the field of view.

Aduz

Mar 25, 2009 | Tasco Target/Varmint 6-24x42mm Rifle Scope...

3 Answers

How to sight scope in /what scope do i have ?


Real simple Scott.
You can 'Zero' your scope/rifle even if you don't have a laser bore-scope device.
All this is assuming that your used rifle has not had the barrel shot out and that the head-space is still within specs for that rifle. Have all this checked by a gunsmith first. You can dress up a piece of poop and it will be pretty, but still be poop. Make sure yours isn't to begin with. As for the scope, it's hard to tell unless there's obvious damage or it's an antique past it's prime. Try to get as good a quality scope as possible to start with. You would not put one ply tube tires on your mustang and expect to get the best performance, so...
Most rifles are capable of shooting quite accurately, and all things being equal, it's the shooters job of making it happen.
Ammunition should be considered as well. Toss your old military ball ammo and junk from overseas, both of'em. If you want to shoot accurately and consistently, you must spend the bucks for the best ammo you can afford.
You MUST KNOW what the BALLISTICS are for the Cal./type/weight ammo you will be shooting and the corresponding distance it will be shot from.

Make sure your rifle is CLEAN inside and out. A clean rifle is a happy rifle.
Make sure that your rifle 'fits' your body's frame and that you are familiar and practice good rifle shooting techniques.
'Zeroing' is best done from the prone position as that is the most steady position to shoot from.
Do you have a bi-pod attached? Whether you do or not, sandbag your rifle securely but still able to make small adjustments to the rifle position itself.
Set up a target with a 1" black dot at 50rds.
Remove the bolt.
Lay down with your rifle but stay OFF of it, touch it as little as possible at this point.
With out disturbing the rifle look through the bore downrange to your target. Locate the black dot and if necessary adjust your rifle from the **** end until you can see the dot through the bore. Keep making minor adjustments until the dot appears to be centered in the bore. Make sure rifle is secure and steady at this point.
Then without moving or touching the rifle, look through the scope using the correct eye relief distance and locate the black dot. Now using the Vertical(Elevation) and Horizontal(Windage) adjustment knobs, move the reticles(crosshairs) until they both are centered on the dot.
Again look through the bore to make sure that you have not moved the rifle and that the dot is still centered in the bore. If not, adjust the rifle again to center the dot, then go back to the scope and adjust as necessary to move the RETICLES to the center of the dot. It may be necessary to repeat this a few times before you have achieved this particular goal.
You do not mention brand/model of your scope. It probably adjusts the reticle or crosshairs in 1/4minute increments (1/4 inch increments with each individual click movement of the turret knobs at 100 yard distance). IT IS CRITICAL for you to know how your own scope adjusts.
Now, bolt back in and load 3 rounds of quality ammo.
You are going to shoot 3 rounds in succession without getting off the rifle or making any adjustments to the rifle or scope. You are looking for a 3 shot group to determine a rough average of how far and where the rounds are impacting initially. Use good shooting techniques, breath control, relax, sight picture, squeeeeeeze the trigger, follow through the scope, there is no need to take your eye off the scope while doing this, hold your shooting position for all 3 shots.
You will now have to make adjustments of the scope unless you are hitting the black dot already which is quite possible.
Remember that if your scope is a 1/4" adjustment at 100yds, it means that for each 'click' that you adjust either Vertically or Horizontally at 100rds, the reticle/crosshairs will move accordingly 1/4 of an inch Vertically or Horizontally. At 200yds, one click will move it 1/2 inch, at 300yrd it will move it 3/4 of an inch, at 400yrd, it will be 1 inch.
Right now you are at 50yrds distance from your target. Each click from here will move the RETICLES about 1/8 of an inch so estimate the distance that your most central shot of the 3 you fired, is from the black dot and adjust accordingly. You're not moving the RIFLE here, you are simply moving the scope RETICLES so that your point of aim and point of impact coincides.
Now load 3 more rounds of ammo and repeat as above. You should only have to use about 9 rounds to get on target, the black dot.
Once you are hitting the black dot at the 50yrd line, move back to the 100yrd line. Put a fresh black dot on your target and repeat the steps from above. Your first 3 shots from the 100yrd line should be about 1/2 to 1 inch low. Don't follow the bullet strikes! Keep your point of aim and the crosshairs ON the black dot no matter where the bullets are striking on the target. Remember, now at 100yrds your RETICLES will move 1/4inch with each 'click' of adjustment of the turret knobs.
Adjust the scope as needed at this point. Once you are 'ON TARGET'(hitting the black dot), you now have your 100yrd. 'ZERO'.
Now that you have this 100yrd ZERO, you must loosen the turret knobs , both the Vertical(Elevation) and the Horizontal(Windage) turrets and align the '0' on the knobs with the '0' on the scope at the base of each knob. Now tighten the set screws and you are set to go. If you want to know your 200yrd 'ZERO', simply move back to the 200yrd line, your 'come-up' or elevation adjustment should be about 7-9 clicks, at least for .308 168grn HPBT, but you will figure it out for the Cal./brand/wght ammo you are using. WHATEVER the 'come-up' you need to make at 200, 300,400yrds or wherever, be sure to make note of the number of clicks you used to find the Zero for that distance. Use a fine point endelible marker and actually write the ZERO info on thestock of your rifle. You don't need to mark anything for the 100yrd ZERO, it's a given already. Write; 200/9, 300/18 and so on. You should also get your ZERO for the intermidiate, 150yrd, 250yrds etc, distances as well.
Remember that weather conditions, source and intesity of light conditions, your own body condition at any particular moment or day can have an affecf on how you and/or your rifle shoot. Good luck.

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