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Gas dryer - no heat

Kenmore front load gas dryer 76801690
Igniter never got hot.
Checked ac voltage, never came on.

Suspect some wiring or contact issue.
I need a wiring and timing chart for the dryer.

Just happened over the weekend 11/4/07.

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  • jraff Nov 08, 2007

    Kenmore, Front Loading Gas Dryer
    Model / Style Number: 76801690 76801
    Serial Number: 4503697
    Mine has one red and one blue wire on it.
    It looks like this;

    Totally open circuit when tested with my $15 multi-meter.
    Going by what the web site indicates, it needs replacement.

    Query; If I short it will it damage something or can I get the dryer to light up to test my theory/hypothesis?

  • jraff Nov 09, 2007

    I ordered the part from $18+.
    Should be a LOT less than a service Tech. showing up and replacing same probably at higher prices.
    I'll write when the part shows up and is installed.
    Thanks for your help.

  • jraff Nov 21, 2007

    Finally got the part today 11/21/07 ordered on the 7th.
    Installed it and dryer is working.
    Keeping fingers crossed.
    Thanks for all the help!!!!!



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There should be a tech sheet in the console. You probably have a blown thermal fuse. It is mounted in the air duct coming from the blower housing and has two blue wires going to it.
Post back with the complete model number from the decal inside the door if you cant find the tech sheet and I will see what I can come up with.

Posted on Nov 05, 2007

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Nov 08, 2007

    Just wanted to follow up on your dryer and see what you found out.


  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Nov 08, 2007

    Yes it needs replacing if it is open. You can bypass it and not damage anything unless you have a dead short somewhere down stream. I have never run into one that caused any damage by bypassing it just to check the rest of the system. I always do it before I walk out to the truck to get a new fuse just to see if there is anything else I might need. I forgot that some of the gas dryers have a red wire, most have 2 blues.

    I don't have a diagram for a plain gas dryer that I can post, only for the ones that have electronic controls.

    Be sure to check your vent to make sure it is not clogged, and if you have no way to check the temprature you may want to replace the Hi-limit thermostat mounted on the burner. If it isn't opening properly it will cause the fuse to blow.

    Let me know what you find.




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I have a Kenmore Elite He3 dryer that runs on propane. The dryer worked fine until i ran the propane tank empty. When I filled the tank the dryer worked but did not heat up. I bleed the propane line...


To check the igniter ya need to use multimeter set to ac voltage and check for 120 vac coming into the igniter if ya have 120 volts ac and the igniter does not glow the igniter is the problem. This tip i wrote covers what to check when a gas dryer does not heat


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My drying is blow cold air intead of hot to dry the clothes . what can the problem be


Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.


At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
(NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

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Our kenmore eliite HE4 gas dryer keeps shutting off after a few minutes of running no mattter what heat setting we put it on. On air dry mode it works. Is this a high heat sensor problem? The unit is 4...

You didn't mention if the dryer is getting hot.

If is getting hot, then shutting off, I agree with you.

If it is NOT getting hot, I would suspect the IGNITER ASSY

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Thanks for using FixYa. If your dryer isn't working or isn't getting heated up, you'll need to check the following to be sure what exactly the issue is--
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —ELECTRIC Models:
• The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One line will be 24 amps and the other line will be 21 amps. The neutral line will be at 3 amps. If the above amperages are not present, then the house wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be suspect.
• Shorted heating element to housing.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.

Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —GAS Models:
• If igniter is not glowing, check for 120 V at igniter.
• Igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorted to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.

If it runs for a few minutes and then stops, then check for the following:--
• Empty dryer.
• Check motor spins freely.
• Lint buildup around drive motor.
• Low voltage present.
• Blower impeller blocked in blower housing.
• Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.



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Do you get a "glow" the glow (orange in color) is for the gas to be ignited?
.1 No glow indicates a no voltage problem to the burner or the igniter is out. Confirm power to the gas valve area 110V usually. If you have voltage the problem is somewhere in the area your in; probably the igniter.

2 If you don't have 110 Volts the problem is in the controls. The fuse link, the timer contacts, the centrifugal switch on the motor, and the heater safety thermostat and operating (s), are all suspect and have to be eliminated 1 by 1.

Hope this helps. With any luck all you need is a new igniter.

Clean the duct out while replacing the igniter if so because the main thing that causes igniter burn out is low air flow. A kinked Dryer vent hose, lint, and plugged up fan circulator on the motor, or if yours has little holes in the inside cabinet where the air is taken to be heated and recirculated, these can get clogged with lint also and cause a problem are the 4 main causes of low air flow..

Hope this helps and please rate me accordingly Thank you and good luck.

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