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Re: gas dryer - no heat
There should be a tech sheet in the console. You probably have a blown thermal fuse. It is mounted in the air duct coming from the blower housing and has two blue wires going to it.
Post back with the complete model number from the decal inside the door if you cant find the tech sheet and I will see what I can come up with.
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make sure that the gas is turned on. if it is the next step is to check the fire chamber. it is a tube about 3in round. there is an igniter toward the front of the tube that when it calls for heat it glows bright red and then gas comes in the tube and it lights it up. if the igniter is not hot enough it will not light the gas. that means u need to replace the igniter.
To check the igniter ya need to use multimeter set to ac voltage and check for 120 vac coming into the igniter if ya have 120 volts ac and the igniter does not glow the igniter is the problem. This tip i wrote covers what to check when a gas dryer does not heat http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10293028-gas_dryer_not_heating
Hello there Gas dryer with no heat: The
parts that I have pointed out
with the arrows are the parts that you will need to check with an ohm meter if the dryer
is not heating. First check and see if you have 110 volts coming to the gas valve at
this type of a connector. If you have voltage, then unplug
the dryer and check the parts I have pointed to. Some dryers have 3 coils instead of the
shown here. If you do not have voltage coming to the
burner, then you will need to check the timer contacts that feed the gas burner, hi limit
thermostat, operating thermostats, the safety switch on the motor, and any other point
that you can see on your wiring diagram picture that feeds voltage to the burner. The
coils on the gas valve are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting. If you
find a open circuit on one of the gas coils, replace them all = less problems later on. If
the glow coil does not work ( get red ), check it with a
ohm meter for continuity. The next thing to check if the glow coil does not come on would
be the radiant
the igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check
for 110 volts to igniter wire plug when dryer should be calling for heat.
Sometimes the ( older style ) igniter is separate from the holder and the holder
can no longer hold the igniter tight enough and the two parts burn/arc
where they touch each other = new igniter and holder ( some manufactures have
new kits to replace these older style parts ). Does the igniter get red and stay red, or does it get red,
you hear a click and it goes off, then a minute later its gets red again?....if
so you possibly have a bad set of coil
valves. If the igniter gets red and stays red constantly then its the
switch that is bad and maybe welded closed.
Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds. Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame. When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter. Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly. Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up. The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.
At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed. (NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced. The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.
Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.
Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner. Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open. Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change. With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out). So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open. It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.
Thanks for using FixYa. If your dryer isn't working or isn't getting heated up, you'll need to check the following to be sure what exactly the issue is--
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —ELECTRIC Models: • The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One line will be 24 amps and the other line will be 21 amps. The neutral line will be at 3 amps. If the above amperages are not present, then the house wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be suspect. • Shorted heating element to housing. • Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground. • Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —GAS Models: • If igniter is not glowing, check for 120 V at igniter. • Igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base. • Incorrect wiring or a wire shorted to ground. • Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
If it runs for a few minutes and then stops, then check for the following:-- • Empty dryer. • Check motor spins freely. • Lint buildup around drive motor. • Low voltage present. • Blower impeller blocked in blower housing. • Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.
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there is two small black solinoids near the igniter., just follow the wires. they are not opening letting the gas through the safety. or the igniter is not getting hot enough to activate the solinoids. i have seen them glow but not create enough milivolts to open the solinoids
possible voltage issue be sure you have steady 240 at 2 outside screws on ac connection next ck timer quick ck unplug dryer remove console cover short large red and black wires together plug back in and turn on ..possible motor switch ..contacts in motor switch close as motor runs supplying one side of element with other 110 volts