- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Several different components could be preventing your dryer from continuing to run when the start button is released. The wiring diagram and other technical information for your dryer are shown in the image below. When the start (PTS or Push To Start) button is pushed, the PTS contact is closed and voltage is supplied to the drive motor. Start voltage is also sensed through the blue/black wire that is connected to the P1-5 Start Sense pin on the control board. When the control board senses the start voltage, it normally applies 48 volts DC voltage through the Pink/Black wire to the motor relay to hold the contact closed between the two blue wires attached to the motor relay that supplies normal run voltage to the drive motor. With the start button taped down, the motor continues to run since it gets voltage through the closed start button. Since the motor stops running when the start button is released, it indicates that you have one of these 3 failures:
Broken or disconnected Start Sense wire.
Failed electronic control board that is not sending the 48 volts DC voltage through the motor relay Failed motor relay. Wiring failure between the components.
Since the motor relay and the heater relay are both exactly the same part, you could unplug the dryer and switch the motor and heater relay to see if the dryer will stay running. If it does, then you just need to order and replace the bad relay.
That error is an E5b error. This indicates a problem with the heating element, the thermistor or the control board. You'll need to unplug the unit and access the wiring. Inspect the heating coil for breaks. Then test the voltage across the element (should see the line voltage) and check the resistance at the thermistor (should be ~50000 Ohms in a room temperature environment). If the above are okay, your control board is probably bad.
If you post a comment with the model number, I may be able to point you the appropriate parts. If your dryer is under warranty, contact Frigidaire.
make sure you have 240 volts. if you do, you should have power. assuming you have power. check your door switch and belt switch. if those two are good, then you might have a bad relay on the main board. if you can solder and can get the relay locally or online, you could change out the relay. or just get new board
have you?.....Checked voltage, checked the thermal fuse, hi limit thermastat on the heater housing
Checked the element to make sure it isn't broken.
If it is newer have you checked the heater relay and or the circuit board beside the timer. and lastly make sure your dryer can vent out. Relays and board are in he control panel.
Best of luck. if you can't do these checks yourself you may need a qualified service technician to help you out.
The issue you are facing is due to the thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse is the problem, the dryer wouldn’t run.
First of all verify the voltage for the dryer by using multi-meter to measure the voltage at the dryer outlet to make sure you have 240v because the dryer motor only needs 120v supplied by one of the lines to run. But the heating elements, on the other hand, need 240v supplied by both lines to get hot.
If the voltage is ok, then the most likely bad parts are given below. As always, you should use your meter and the tech sheet supplied with your dryer (hidden inside the control panel) to verify:
1. Even Heat Board
2. Heater Relay
You need to check and replaced the bad parts to resolve the issue you are facing with.
Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.
hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the heater relay causes high current draw and damages the terminals on the heater relay on the main control board. check it out.. thank u.. kindly rate my response..
is this the even heat model? if it is you need a new control board on the back of the timer area and might as well buy a couple relays the black ones with 4 wires in them. one is for the pts and the other is a heater relay both are the same part