Get the old gas out of tank and carb....put new gas in...wait 2-5 min....spray starter fluid into carb --one decent squirt....it'll crank....
do not cross-thread on the bowl screw....take your time-make sure it goes on easily...
do tighten down snug tho...
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SOURCE: Stuck pull cord on Toro 6.5 self-propelled mower
1) Common problem when a mower sits for several weeks at a time between mowing;
check for extra grass debris to be glogged between the blade and the mower shell.
2) If the mower has a 'bail' or 'zone' control handle;
this releases a brake mechanism on the flywheel to allow it to rotate, and after it is running, releasing the lever will 'kill' the engine.
NOTE* when transporting a push mower in the trunk of a car, try to keep the mower as level as possible.
*extra note when mower has been transported in the back of a car;
sometimes the mower is placed in a trunk at such a severe angle that the oil from the crankcase is forced around the rings and sits on top of the piston so that when you try to pull the rope you have a 'hydra' lock. (that is when a liquid is between the piston and the spark plug) You cannot compress a liquid, so the rope appears stuck.
If this happens, remove the spark plug (make sure the loose plug wire is fastened away from any combustable that comes out of the spark plug hole *** AND THERE WILL BE A HUGE STREAM OF OIL AND GASOLINE, SO BE PREPARED TO CLEAN UP A MESS ***
pull as normal until fluid is dispelled from internal engine
clean or replace the spark plug
a few more pulls (no choke required) and you are up and going
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
SOURCE: I have a Toro Super Recycler GTS 6.5 HP. Upon
Oil level too high? *(check oil level with dipstick fully screwed down!)
or
Leaking valve guide *(rare.)
Cylinder walls not sealing well and oil leaking past rings. *(less rare...nothing you really can do about....just getting used up)
I would change the oil and be very careful to fill only within the full range.
Then, run the unit once to clear the muffler out.
Good luck and be careful!
SOURCE: i have a toro lawn
Remove the float bowl on the carb and remove the debris from the float bowl. Also in the very bottom of the carb where the float bowl attach nut screws in there is a jet. Take some carb cleaner and shoot into the hole to remove any debris from the jet.
I note you say you changed the spark plug. Is the problem fuel or spark related? It appears to be a fuel issue.
Also if we have to go beyond this post and I will gladly do so to resolve your mower problem. (I have over 40 years of hands on and in shop experience.) I really need your engine model number vs the Mower model number after this. Toro uses 2 different engines on that model of mower.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly
SOURCE: I have a Toro Super Recycler Mdl 20033 ser
You may not need to change the ignition module. The "air-gap" on it may just need to be adjusted. That is, the distance between the pickup legs of the ignition module and the magnets integrated into the flywheel. You would have to remove the exterior cover and any sheet metal cowling (directs air flow off the flywheel around the engines cylinder). Then, the coil and flywheel should be visible. I use a standard business card as a gauge. Slide it between the coil legs and the magnet area of the flywheel. You should feel just a slight little rub. If it won't slide or the gap is large, no spark will be produced. You will have to loosen the screws holding the coil in place, double up the card. let the magnets pull the legs in against the card with magnets behind and retighten. Then recheck for spark. Post back if needed.
SOURCE: I have a Toro GTS5 Super Recycler mower model
Hi ricks7...
I also believe that it is a problem with the jets.
Try some of these solutions
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Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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