Replace lid switch ffle1011mw2 - Frigidaire Washing Machines

SOUNDS LIKE A BAD TIMER

I Think It's your catch on door

Sounds like your lid safety switch is bad. Replace the switch. If this is a unit with a hidden lid switch, left rear, you may only need tighten your lid hinge screws.

Hot water valve could be closed

Good day,
Common problem, Change the switch, and make sure if it is the model with a plunger for the switch mounted on the lid, that that be replaced as well.

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You may can slightly bent the part the lid contacts so it will be depressed further thereby making the switch. If that doesn't work then you will need to replace the switch.

there is a screw right on the edge of where the clothes go in the washer on the right side,remove the top cover ans unplug lid switch harness, remove lid switch and then replace lid switch and reverse the procedure

it mounts to the metal where the lid closes, not on the drum... there's usually two holes where the screws go through... and a third hole where the actuator(plastic post) on the lid goes through to activate the lid switch...

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If not activated by a lid strike, other models have the lid switch located under the washer casing next to one of the lid hinges. It is activated by a rod contacting an actuator. The mounting scews for this type are located under the operator console.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to access the washer interior and replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of a replacement is $25 to $35.

NOTE: Pounding on the lid or storing heavy items on the lid can contribute to premature failure of the lid switch.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS I'm trying to rule out the possibility of a bad timer. The lid switch is the most common fail item on this washer and can give symptoms of a serious problem. The timer is more expensive to replace, so its worth double checking the lid switch to be sure.

F3 means lid switch failure. Heres what the service manual for your washer says about the failure.
Flashes if the lid is NOT opened after the cycle was completed. The
electronic control board must detect that PAUSE/CANCEL was
pressed during a cycle or the lid was opened at least once at the end
of any cycle. This is continually tested to ensure proper lid switch
operation. If “F 3” is flashing, check continuity of the lid switch.
• With the lid closed, lid switch contacts should be closed.
• With the lid open, lid switch contacts should be open.
• If the lid switch has failed, replace it.
• If the lid switch is good, replace the electronic control board.