My water connection trips power after the water is turned on for a while depending can be an hour or two and when i shut the water off its fine? why would this be? what can i do to fix it? is the a recommended pressure the water should be connected to? currently its connected to bar water pressure.

There is a dead short line to line or line to ground. The dead short can be detected with a electric continuity tester connected across the load side of the mains (power shut off) and opening covers and inspecting the wiring.

Hello Santiago;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

In the defrost mode everything shuts down with the exception of the light.

So, lets trip the defrost timer and get your freezer running.

You did not provide a model number which is located on a label on the inside liner wall near the top.

Your defrost timer may be part of your control board.

Let's assume it is not.

In the lower back left hand corner of you unit the is a metal plate with a small slotted shaft. With a large flat head screw driver turn the shaft clockwise on click at a time until your unit starts up. You must do the same thing every 12 hours to turn it off for 30 minutes to allow for defrost until the timer is replaced is replaced.

Note the round on the left.

Go into the following web site, put in your model number. Select the diagram with the defrost timer. Search the internet with the part number shown
Water Filters Lawn Garden Appliance Parts

I would switch off the power, disconnect water and keep it so for a few hours. While power off, clean whatever visible build up you find. And make sure you shut the water valve before disconnecting unless you want another project! After a few hours connect water and power and wait until ice made. Goodluck.

Hello Mary;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

You are locked in the defrost mode. About every 8-10 hours your freezer will go into a defrost mode for 20-30 minutes. This is where all of the components will shut down except for the light.

You have water on the floor because your condenser fan and compressor is shut down.

You did not provide a model number. Your model number is on the inside wall of your freezer near the top. So, I can only guess.

Lets take your freezer out of the defrost mode. In the lower back on the left hand side is your defrost timer (This may also be in the lower front depending on the model). Following is a picture of what a defrost timer looks like.



The time is mounted on the back of a plate and held on with two screws. The plate has a hole through it to give you access to the round knob on the left. The knob has a slot in it. With a flat head screw driver turn the knob clockwise. You will hear a click. Turn one click at a time until the freezer turns on.

The timer cost about $20.00. You can replace it yourself. Unplug the freezer. Unscrew the timer. Remove the connector on the right.

You need to replace the timer or you will have icing problems.

Send me your model number and I will tell you what the part number is.

Safety is not an issue, the problem you may have, depending on the surge protector, is that when the compressor starts up the amps drawn from the circuit is very high which could cause the surge protector to trip, then the power would be shut off to the refrigerator,NOT A GOOD THING!
Good luck !

Check the ice maker to see if there are ice cubes in the ice maker. If so, there is a problem with the ice maker heater and / or motor. You may be able to rebuild the ice maker by replacing defective parts, but it might be easier to replace it as a whole unit instead. If there is no ice present, it is likely a problem with the ice maker water lines / solenoid.

There are usually two solenoid valves and tubing systems for these types of fridges. One actuates on demand for water whenever requested, and the other operates automatically to make ice cubes until the ice cube reservoir is full.

Carefully push/pull the fridge away from the wall.

Unplug the fridge from the outlet.

Shut off the water supply to the fridge.

Remove access cover (usually the on the bottom) from the back of the fridge. Follow the tube that comes from the top of the fridge (for the ice maker) down to the bottom of the fridge.

Inspect visually for sources of the leak on tubing and related parts. Carefully check by hand for leaks in areas not readily visible - including the back sides of all the tubing, too. There may be sharp edges that can cut if not paying attention. If a leak is found where the tubing connects to other parts, you may be able to simply remove the tube and cut it back an inch or so if there is enough slack.

It may require that some special fittings and parts be obtained to reconnect and some compression type parts are designed for single use. If this is the case, gather the parts and bring them to a local hardware store for assistance obtaining replacements.

If a solenoid valve is found to be the culprit, due to a crack, etc. a trip to an appliance parts store will be required - unless able to purchase online. Part prices can vary widely , depending on the source.

Once replacement parts have been secured, reconnect after disconnecting power & water supply lines. When satisfied with the installation, reconnect power and water lines and test.

Carefully slide the fridge back into position - taking care to not crush the power or water lines.

it may take a while for your fridge to cool down that water again. if this happened in the last half hour or so. im guessing your fridge may take upto an hour to drop a load of ice.. this also depends on the ambient temperature

It probably has a circuit breaker located on the bottom of the fridge, behind the front filter. Also try looking inside the refridgerator side at the top. It may be red colored to indicate it is safety-related. Just push it in - but don't be surprised if it trips again.

WARNING: RESET ONLY ONCE TO AVOID A FIRE OR ELECTROCUTION SITUATION.

You may have an internal problem, in which case the freezer's circuit breaker is your best friend!

Note that the self-defrosting freezers have a timer that shuts them off periodically so they can defrost. Sometimes the timer does the defrosting in the middle of the day, giving the appearance of a failure. This could be your problem.

every 6-8 hrs your ref. goes into a defrost mode. sounds to me like your fridge is getting stuck in defrost, may want to replace defrost timer roughly 18-45.00 dollars depending were you live. also ive seen a few that the electrical cord in back were it goes into ref mid way up to the left behind cover can have some loose connections back their; remove panel covering and inspect. becuz if its the timer it wouldnt cause the light not to work so it may not be your timer if the light it turning off.also make sure your outlet is good and the prongs on power cord are not loose. hope this helps

Other than un-hooking the power and any other connection like water, then defrosting to get rid of any ice buildup then prep for moving...the only thing you have to be aware of is transporting it in an unright position to protect the condenser. Here are the steps:

1. Remove all food from the refrigerator and pack all
frozen food in dry ice.
2. Depending on your model, turn the thermostat control
(refrigerator control) to OFF. See the Setting the
Controls section.
3. Unplug the refrigerator.
4. Clean, wipe and dry thoroughly.
5. Take out all removable parts, wrap them well and tape
them together so they don’t shift and rattle during the
move.
6. Depending on the model, raise the front of the
refrigerator so it rolls more easily OR screw in the
leveling legs all the way so they don’t scrape the floor.
See the Door Closing section.
7. Tape the doors shut and tape the power cord to the
refrigerator cabinet.