I 2 type r 12s with a v12 amp one of them distorts and trips amp

It sounds like the reservoir is tripping the switch, be sure it moves freely when the reservoir is installed.

Check your ground

As a rule of thumb you should drive them before their clipping or start to distort point, hope this helps.

i have problem with my amp...
my amp is not work probly because when i tune it up the volume the amp shut down

Take out of the box, and hook them up to your amp one at a time, if it makes a cracking noise its blown

Could be that you have a partially roasted(blown) coil on one of your subs which will function- but will keep tripping your amp.You can check that out just by using a different set of subs to listen to and by the process of elimination if the problem goes away then you know where the problem is at.Also check your gains you might be riding the gain a little high which causes distortion which causes heat(FAST) which will cause the amp to shut down completely or some amps will decrease output in a programmed attempt to save itself.turn the bass boost down to half if you even use it at all- that too can cause massive distortion in the amp itself,meaning only that if you have the bass boost on your deck turned up and then you turn the boost up on your amp the sound signal is then WAYYY distorted which will cause a thermal shutdown too. Last thing is to make sure that your subs arent running below 2 ohms because i believe that particular amp is designed to put out about 900 watts at 2 ohms.good luck

Sounds like you have an overtemp switch that is tripping and shutting your motor off. Many motors use what they call a 'snap switch" ( looks like a small disk with two wires on it ) to sense motor temp and if that trips, then it will temporarily disable power to the motor until it cools down enough to allow power to be reapplied. If you are sure everything is clean and your motor can rotate freely ( if there is a restriction that limits motor rotation, more current is drawn to drive the motor thru that restriction ..which in turn will cause excessive heat build up and the temp switch to trip) ... Hope that helps!

The head unit may be rated at 200 watts but it cannot produce more than ~20 watts of real power per channel. There's no way that it can drive the high end speakers to a level that will be needed to compete with the subs on a 1000 watt amplifier.

Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.

If smoke has come out of the subwoofer, the speaker itself, that means the voice coils have been heated excessively and they are damaged or in this case, I'd say completely blown. Voice coils blow because they've been driven too hard, too much power, too much distortion for too long.

If you can get access to the front of the subwoofer speakers, gently put even pressure with your fingers near the middle of the cone, just around the edge of the centre dust cap and push gently and slightly inwards. If you hear or feel a "scratchy" type sound or feel, or if they dont move in freely, they are blown. And if that's the case, your amp could be damaged as well.

Most modern car amps have circuit protection and will shut down when they detect a load greater than they are used to so the amp MAY be ok. One way to test the amp is to hook another speaker to it, any speaker as a test is ok, and see if sound comes out. Make sure all power is off when connecting and disconnecting speakers!