I have gas going into my oil. 17.5 Briggs solenoid on carb bowl
I have pulled th OHValves and the head gasket looks good. The solenoid retracts when the ignition is switched. The valves, piston and valves look normal. The engine runs great after I pull the spark plug and blow the gas out of the cylinder and have changed the oil. The gas seems to run into the cylinder after it has sit 2-3 days. It don't seem to fill while running. It doesn't burn oil. The engine is 2 years old and never been mistreated.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: I have gas going into my oil. 17.5 Briggs solenoid...
The problem is the float needle and seat are leaking. It is not shutting off the gas when the bowl is full. The bowl fills up, then runs down the intake through the intake valve into cylinder, past the rings into the crankcase. Fairly common problem. Just replacing the rubber tipped needle probably will not stop the leak. The pressed-in brass seat needs to be pulled out and a new one pressed in also. Possibly there is some trash or rust in the carb that has gotten between the needle and seat, but in my experience, it usually takes replacing both to fix.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
smell the oil if it smells like gas then the needle and seat in the carb is leaking if not remove the cylinder head and see if the gasket blew out and its sucking oil from the crankcase if not look at the bore for scores scratches and scraps
you need to service your carb. it has a bowl on the bottom of the carb. it should have a screw or a nut holding the bowl in place some of the new ones have a spring clip. anyhow take it loose and there is some holes in the bolt that need to be cleaned out if tou dont have anything small enough homedepot and lowes sell a tip cleaning kit for cutting torches and it has some tiny wies that will work . some carbs have a screw in the middle of the hole after you take off the bolt look in the center and if it looks like a flat head brass screw then you can un screw that peice to and clean it thos tiny holes get cloged real fast get som carb cleaner and clean everything and the bowl it only takes gas 30 days to oxyzadize and it will leave behind a yellow scale like plaque on your teeth and will foul up the whole thing . keep note when removing the bowl one side is lower so keep it the same direction when removing it will allow the float to settle down right to allow the gas to flow into the bowl. the float has a little valve that has a rubber tip on it and it can get stuck and not work right if things seem clean and still runs funny get a carb kit from truvalue o a lawn epair shop get all info off side of motor . when installing bowl if you have a screw with a spring out the bottom of bowl screw all the way inn then turn back out 2 1/2 turns to adjust proper flow if screw is on side of carb turn same amount if too much gas is idling rough turn screw in some hope this helps
You need to determine if you have a Nikki or Walbro carb. The Nikki bowl is held on by two phillips head screws and the Walbro bowl is secured by either a single bowl nut or a anti-backfire soleniod (two wires going to it). Your problem is probably the seat in the carburetor. We see very few float problems since most of them are plastic.
If you have a Walbro with the anti-backfire solenoid you will need to get a slim 1/2 open end wrenc the access the "flats" on the solenoid to unscrew it.
The brass seat is replaceable in the Walbro along with the needle. If it's a Nikki, you may need to replace the carburetor.
Check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark, the the problem is fuel related. If your carbs have an electrical solinoid below the bowl, unplug the wire connection and THEN unscrew the solenoid. There maybe a fiber gasket, be careful not to tear it. Unscrew the solenoid and check to see if clean fuel comes out of the bowl. If no fuel comes out, you have to clean the carb bowl and the jet. If clean and FRESH gas does come out of the bowl, then the (fuel shut off) solenoid is stuck in the OFF position. (the alcohol in our gas causes these solenoids to rust and stick) Buy a new solenoid. NOW if you don't have spark, check the kill switches first, you may have 3 on a riding mower.You can temporaily bypass them if you don't have an ohm meter for testing.
I had the same problem and talked to 3 different techs. The only solution they would come up with is to replace the carb. I didnt believe this was the problem. If you have a fuel solenoid on the bottom of the float bowl remove it and just put in a float bowl plug that threads in. I just taped up the solenoid connector. It runs better than it ever did. I believe the solenoid gets hot and starts shutting off the fuel. I used a plug from a spare set of 1977 yamaha motorcycle carbs I had sitting around.Go figure. Hope this works
If the engine fires on starting fluid, then you are missing fuel, so you need to start with the source, is fuel getting to the carb? if not why not. Check fuel lines, shut off valves and filters.
If it is, is the carb float allowing the bowl to fill?
If there is fuel in th float bowl, then you need to look at mixture and idle settings.