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If you don't see two screws diagonal of each other than there is a little ring holding in your primer bulb. Be careful when removing ring as to not bend out of shape usually new primer bulbs don't come with them. If there are the two screws diagonally, than just unscrew and lift holding plate remove old primer and reverse for install... Good Luck....
Sounds like it could be a number of faults. 1. Crack in the primer bubble its self, not allowing the creation of pressure or vaccum. 2. The plastic primer base has a valve in it. That could either be blocked or damaged. 3. Blocked up fuel line (not very likely) 4. Hole in the fuel line which is sllowing it to suck air up and not fuel. I\'d be putting my money on 1 or 2.
Lots of research has shown a lack of diagrams on fuel line routing. Your carburetor has the purge/primer bulb on top of it. Just to help you understand how it works....the bulb uses a vacuum effect to pull fuel from the tank directly into the carburetor and the check valves in the plate under the bulb (known as the primer base assembly) push any air and old fuel inside the carb back into the fuel tank. On your model, the line inside the tank with the fuel filter on it will come out and go to the carburetor body BELOW the base assembly. The other line coming out of the tank (fuel return line) will go TO the nipple on the base assembly. The lines should be nice and soft and so should the bulb. They all have to be replaced periodically as alcohol, heat and age deteriorate them. Please post back if needed.
It helps to know the purpose and function of the purge/primer bulb. It is designed to draw fresh fuel out of the fuel tank (line with in-tank fuel filter) and send it directly to the fuel pump side of the carburetor. Also, it's vacuum effect helps out it's next function of drawing any air/old fuel out of the carburetor from the metering chamber and sending it back to the fuel tank after it passes thru the bulb itself. This is how a remote primer bulb functions. It doesn't have to be completely full of fuel for the engine to run either.
So, you need to check 1. The fuel filter in the gas tank 2. The condition of the fuel line connected to that filter (the line should be soft and clear, not yellow and brittle). 3. The status of the fuel inlet on the carburetor (open). 4. The condition of the fuel line from the carb to the primer bulb
5. The condition of the primer bulb and its' plastic fittings. (the bulb shouldn't have any cracks or be severely discolored . These things apply whether the bulb is a stand alone type or mounted on carb type.
Carburetor mounted bulbs develop their own unique problems of operation due to the check valves that control fuel flow below them in the primer base assembly of the carburetor. Those valves are fragile and sometimes fail (strong solvents and high air pressure ruin them) and the fuel doesn't move back and forth properly causing carburetor malfunction.
I am under the assumption the primer bulb is atop the carburetor. There are check valves under the bulb in the primer base assembly of these carbs. Sometimes, the valves stick and sometimes they go bad completely. There are very small and for all practical purposes unserviceable, however...you can try this...pull the fuel lines off of the carb and spray WD-40 into the brass inlet and outlet. Remove the primer bulb again and liberally spray some WD onto the top of the primer base assembly...this being done in hopes of freeing up a sticky check valve. If you have extra or old fuel lines, hook them to the carb...inject WD-40 and work the bulb to attempt to move the lubricant back and forth out of the carb. Sometimes this works, sometimes not..if valves are bad. There are replaceable parts and kits for the primer base available on the manufacturers websites. The primer bulb does not have to be completely full of fuel to allow the engine to run, but the base assembly can cause problems in fuel flow to and from the carb and even mimic a flooding condition. Don't use carb cleaner and dont soak the carb in any,. Try this and post back if needed.
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The primer bulb does not have to be full of fuel for the carburetor and trimmer to operate correctly. The actual function of the purge/primer bulb is to help pull fresh fuel into the carburetor while at the same time, push old fuel/air out of the carb and back to the fuel tank. You may have bad check valves in the primer base assembly but, the machine can even operate if the bulb is only even 1/2 full or so...Make sure the fuel is moving in only one direction during and after the bulb is pushed and released. If it's not....bad check valves. These valves are very small and fragile and easily damaged by strong solvents, high PSI compressed air...and carburetor bath type cleaners. You didn't state whether the machine will start, run, what have you. Repost if needed. Please vote on this solution.
Your SX-135 string trimmer was built by Homeliteand has a model number of UT-20601. That said, your trimmer's primer bulb part number depends on teh type of carburetor it has. If your trimmer has a Walbro carburetor, the primer bulb part no. is 01201. If it has a Zama carburetor (the most likely one) the primer bulb part no. is A01195A.
This is the same problem I have with a Mac 3200. I have: (1) A line from the primer bulb to the front port on the carburator. (2) line from fuel tank, with attached fuel filter, to the other primer bulb port. (3) Line from port on back of carb. to ????. I thought it must be a pulse line, but not certain, and don't know where to run it to. Please let me know when you find out.
If you have a primer bulb and the motor "recovers" after a near stall with a pump of the bulb, then you have to replace your fuel pump. Johnsons do have this problem often. Otherwise it could be the high speed jets although it sounds like you checked the carb good. Also if you have a primer bulb, Replace everything from the tank to the engine. Costs about $14 at Wal Mart, $55 at a boat place.