Question about GE Spacemaker WSLP1100D Top Load Washer
As soon as I turn it on and it starts to fill it immediately starts to run out of the bottom. I have checked the hoses and they seem to be intact, any other suggestions what may be the issue
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE WJSR 1070A Leaking
It sounds like you have a leaking pump. The pump is easy to replace:
#1 Use a shop vac and pull all the water out of the drain line. This will keep you from having to clean up about 1 gallon of water off of the floor.
#2 Lift the front of the machine enough for you to get under and see.the pump just inside the front of the washer.
#3 Lift the 2 retaining clips off of the pump. This will allow you to pull the pump off of the motor.
#4 Remove the 2 clamps off of the hoses.
#5 Install the new pump into the hoses, and reinstall the clamps.
#6 With the retaining clips installed into the motor housing, install the pump.
#7 Attach the retaining clips, and set the washer back on the ground.
You have now replaced the washer pump.
If you have any questions, let me know
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Posted on Jul 29, 2008
SOURCE: Water leaks/pours out
its very difficult to answer your question since different machines use different pumps. as for the leak my guess is either a hose has disconnected/torn at the pump or inlet water valve.
Posted on Sep 19, 2007
Pull the washer foward, tilt back against the wall and look under it.... look where the water pump connects to the motor shaft... check for rust etc.... if so replace pump....
Posted on Dec 15, 2007
is usually caused by a “stuck-open” fill valve, and the cold water
half of the valve is usually the culprit.
This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let’s take a look at these.
First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***’y. Replace the fill valve.
If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.
Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you’ll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK, but we’re having fun, so let’s continue!
Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now hot)and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate.
This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You’re blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged.
Older Maytags are known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the ‘Corbin’ clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off – 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see ‘gunk’ clogging both the rubber tubing and the ‘spud’ that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID.
It is best cleaned from the inside, which means pulling the cabinet and tub. Not beyond the reach of the handyman, this job does require a special spanner wrench to remove the tub nut, as well as the removal of some other components. I’d probably recommend this one as a job for the pro. An experienced tech will have seen this before and be in and out in an hour or less.
The tank port on these washers is too small - only about 3/8 in. diameter, and hard to clean, even from the inside. Here’s yet another job for the trusty wetvac. We are hopeful that Whirlpool will soon enlarge or baffle these ports to correct this problem - one of very few ‘glitches’ these excellent machines have.
Whatever your brand, if air can’t be blown back through this tube, the port or dome will need cleaning.
If you have no trouble blowing pressure through it remove the tube completely and inspect it carefully. This tube must not have the smallest hole in it, and we sometimes see them worn through or, more often, chewed through by mice. I mention this last because, while it is the least common cause of overflow I see, it does happen and is easily overlooked. We run into this a couple of times each year, usually in the Fall when the mice are looking for a warm winter home.
Also uncommon, sometimes this tube will swell and loosen a bit, leaking air where it attaches to the tank fitting. If you suspect this, or the tube fits very loosely, simply cut 3/4” or so off the end and push it back on.
One last comment on this concerns some newer Frigidaire 27” (wide) machines. These use a piece of tape (!) to secure the pressure tube to the outside of the tank. This tape has to be there (don’t ask me how I know!) or the tube will pull off while spinning, causing flooding. If it has come off, or was removed for service, be sure to replace it. Duct tape will work well; just be sure to clean the tank before attaching to be sure it stays put. Naptha (lighter fluid) will do this well.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
SOURCE: GE Front Load Washer
Removing the lower front panel (3 screws nearest floor), and opening the round, white water pump filter cap (be ready to catch about 2 gallons of water!) is the best place to start. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver and a large, flat pan (deep turkey tray works well)!
YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE what I found in my filter housing this morning (see photo below)!
The washer is working fine now, although I may go back and remove the entire water pump so it can be dismantled, thoroughly cleaned, and reinstalled.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
This is a good question; what brand of washer machine do you have?
Is it front or top load?
Leaks water from the front door, from where you load the soap or from the back or bottom?
If it is from the front door it could be the gasket, if it is from where you load the soap it's the same soap clogging the fill hose, if it is from the back it could be the hoses or the fill valve, if it is a top load and you see the water liking from the side or bottom, then, if it is from the side the fill hose is your problem if it is from the bottom then it could be the seal from the drum or just a leaking pump.
Please be more specific
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