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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: r\r the pull rope spring assy
>>The Following is a General Instruction File I Made to Perform this Repair. If you have Any Suggestions or Remarks, then Please Let me Know. Thanks.
>>**Remove the Boom/Shaft from the Engine. Remove the Mounting Bolts and the Boom and Center Drive Shaft should Slide Away from the Starter Housing Assembly.
>>**On Some Model Trimmers, there is a Torx Screw Inside the Coupling Drive that has to be Removed.
>>****There is also a Locking Screw on the Side of the Housing that is a Anti-Vibration Lock.****
>>Using the Breakdown as a Guide Remove the Starter Housing Assembly from the Engine Assembly.
>>Now Carefully/Slowly Remove the Pressure Plate Assembly from the Starter Housing.
>>The Spring May have Broken and Sometimes a Section will Jump Out when the Pressure Plate Assembly is Removed from the Starter Housing. When it Jumps, it Pushes the Recoil Pulley Out Also.
>>Look at the Direction of the Coil of the Spring in the Housing and Make an Arrow in the Direction of the Coil with a Magic Marker on the Inside of the Housing.
>>Remove the Broken Spring and Clean the Housing with Spray Lubrication. You can Use Solvent if Required, Just be Sure to Wipe it Before Assembly with Spray Lubricant. The New Spring should come with a Retainer that Holds it in a Circle.
>>If you have Removed the Spring from the Retainer, then Use a Piece of Plastic Pipe About 2" Long that is the Same Inside Diameter as the Retainer (Slightly Smaller than the Recess that the Spring Coils Into if you Lost the Retainer).
>>Coil the Spring Into the Pipe and then Set the Spring Into the Recess. Make Sure the Spring Tab of the Spring Engages the Spring Lock in the Recess.
>>Use a Socket to Hold the Spring in Place and Pull the Pipe Out of the Recess.
>>Lock the Pulley in Place.
>>Now Turn the Pulley in the Same Direction that the Pulley would Turn if the Rope was Turning it.
>>Once the Pulley will Turn No More, then Reverse Direction 1 or 2 Turns and Thread the New Rope Through the Hole in the Center of the Pulley and Out the Hole in the Blower Housing.
>>Pull the Rope Through Until it is Tight Against the Pulley. Now Tie a Slip Knot in the Rope to Hold the Pulley in Place While the Handle is Attached to the Rope.
>>Once the Handle is Attached, Release the Slip Knot and the Rope Should Retract Into the Housing. Reassemble the Blower Housing Onto the Engine.
>>On Some Models you May have to Install the Rope Before you Lock the Pulley in Place. If So, there is a U in the Pulley that the Rope is Held in While Turning the Pulley to Tighten the Spring.
The Following is a "General" "Chainsaw Clutch Removal" File. **To Hold the Crankshaft for Removal of the Clutch; Purchase a Bolt that is 3" to 4" Long and has the Same Diameter and Threads as the Spark Plug. Carefully Insert the Bolt Into the Engine Until it Contacts the Piston. If the Bolt is too Short, then Slowly Turn the Engine in the Same Direction you are Going to be Turning the Clutch Until the Piston Contacts the Bolt. Now to Remove the Clutch. If you do Not have the Clutch Tool for an Impact Wrench and are Doing this By Hand (no air compressor and/or not the correct socket), then Use a 2" Wide, Flat Chisel and a Shop Hammer or a 22oz Hammer and Hit the Outer Part of the Thick Ear in the Same Direction that the Engine Turns During Operation.**
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Posted on May 15, 2009
This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used,...you choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above...a few pulls, a "pop"...slide it off of choke and away you went.
If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
clean grass off between shaft and the top of the head. hold weed eater still and turn the head, looking between the shaft and the top of the head. There will be what looks like a hole. Place something there that will keep the shaft from turning, then twist the head off.
Posted on May 25, 2011
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